Rockfax Description
Meander up the wall taking care with some fragile holds. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The route is at the left edge of the Quarryman Wall. It gives good climbing but some holds are fragile.

Approach by abseil (~33 m) from the belay station below the Combat Rock tunnel entrance. Abseil straight down the corner to a tree then bear R (looking in) down grooves to the starting ledge (solitary bolt).

Climb 2 m back up the groove then step R on to the wall and move R and up with difficulty (crux) to good holds on the L wall of a shallow corner. Move up on to the L rib and follow it until steps R lead to the ramp above the shallow corner. Follow a blocky crack then stride back L to the rib (care with flakes). Gain a square-cut handhold on the R and step R on the lip of the main overlap. Weave up the headwall to the lower off.

The crux can be avoided by an easier but looser line to the R. The route is then 6a/6a+.

Escape by reversing the Alcove approach (i.e. traverse L on ledges and flakes from the lower off to the ab point - easy but a quickdraw on rope hanging down from the Alcove stance and a red cam provide useful protection. The last person to lead the route can go all the way from the start to the Ab point in one pitch.

H. Walmsley, M. Hounslea 15/Dec/2016.

Ticklists

Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge! , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6b & 6b+

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