UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
Start at the belay just as you enter 'The Alcove'. Weave up the left arete to 'the Podium'. Clip the belay on Cyclone B, then move right to a crack - gear. Above this, gain the slim groove of Legal Murders and a bolt. At the next bolt, traverse left back to the arete and the shared finish with Purple Haze. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Halal's hot slate extreme progression , Llanberis Slate *** Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Michael Morrell 20 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The ledge at the start of the route has two bolts for a belay. The ledge is covered in loose slate which falls off easily into the rest of the quarry. Avoid on a busy day or if anyone is in the base of the quarry.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The ledge at the start of the route has two bolts for a belay. The ledge is covered in loose slate which falls off easily into the rest of the quarry. Avoid on a busy day or if anyone is in the base of the quarry.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Twll Mawr

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 4
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Harvey Proctor's Spanking Slap

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))

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