Rockfax Description
One of Joe Brown's original forays into the quarries shows just how bold they were back then. Given how frequently this area of rock exfoliates itself, it is a wonder if any of the original line actually exists.
1) 45m. Pick your way up scree-covered ledges to reach the base of The Quarryman where the bolt belay at the start of Wonderful World... is.
2) 4c, 27m. Traverse rightwards across more questionable terrain to a sloping ledge. A bad step leads up to a bay with a thread belay amongst some boulders.
3) 5a. 35m. Move across the bay to gain the far arete. Above used to be the 'banana flake' - its integrity is demonstrated by its absence. The remaining rock is suspect to say the least. Start to the left of the arete. Climb to better rock and get some gear in thin cracks. Gain the exposed crystal ledge on the arete. Mantel up onto the next ledge. Above is a giant 'Jenga' tower. Ascend this to gain a bay of steep sloping scree. Belay at the back of this.
4) and 5) 70m. Layback up the crack at the back of the bay and take the easiest line up ledges above, stopping occasionally for a belay. Carry on until the fault-line of Hamadryad comes to meet you at a steep wall - belay.
6) Exit leftwards back to safety over a hut roof. It is best to ascend up towards Heaven Walls and follow an incline back down over the top of Yellow Wall to Serengeti. © Rockfax
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Grade: XS 5b ***
(Cilan Head)