Follow twin cracks/ the groove to gain the bottom of the Meltdown groove, then finish as per Meltdown Direct. Effectively climbs the straight up line of the buttress, missing out the first hard move of the Meltdown, but with harder moves to join the same point from below and a harder finish. Quite different from the original meltdown, as it shares none of the easy climbing and adds a sustained sequence that is more than twice as long.
Potential 40 footer down the slab from the end, so kind of has an E10 vibe when you're tired on redpoint.
Potential 40 footer down the slab from the end, so kind of has an E10 vibe when you're tired on redpoint.
Franco Cookson, Anna Healy Oct/2023.
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Route of Interest
Meltdown Direct
Grade: 9a+ ***
(Twll Mawr)