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Rockfax Description
This extraordinary outing sees few ascents as a complete route. Some abseil in to attempt the iconic groove pitch on its own.
1) 6c, 25m. A great pitch up the wall.
2) 6b, 10m. Traverse right along the break to the 'Paris' belay.
3) 6c, 18m. The groove starts smooth and wide and gets smoother and wider before a few holds appear and it eases slightly near the top.
4) 7a, 25m. For those who have climbed the groove, the disappointingly hard top pitch still needs to be done, although it is only desperate for a short section. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 8's & 9, Hardest routes in Britain, Bold Slate routes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK, UK smearing corners

Feedback

User Date Notes
anguskille 25 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Old bolts throughout the route have been replaced, including the anchor. Quite a lot safer now. No bolts were added to the original route but the first bolt in the groove is a little lower, so it is possible to clip it ground-up, although this would be tricky.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Old bolts throughout the route have been replaced, including the anchor. Quite a lot safer now. No bolts were added to the original route but the first bolt in the groove is a little lower, so it is possible to clip it ground-up, although this would be tricky.
Ben Bouissou 30 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Happy to send this historique rout :-) every pitch at the segond go ! For me: 7C+ 7A+ 8A 7C Slate on the sun was great experience :-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Happy to send this historique rout :-) every pitch at the segond go ! For me: 7C+ 7A+ 8A 7C Slate on the sun was great experience :-)

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E9
Mid E9
Low E9
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
Votes cast 1
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Melody

Grade: E8 6b ***
(Craig Doris)