UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
This extraordinary outing sees few ascents as a complete route. Some abseil in to attempt the iconic groove pitch on its own.
1) 6c, 25m. A great pitch up the wall.
2) 6b, 10m. Traverse right along the break to the 'Paris' belay.
3) 6c, 18m. The groove starts smooth and wide and gets smoother and wider before a few holds appear and it eases slightly near the top.
4) 7a, 25m. For those who have climbed the groove, the disappointingly hard top pitch still needs to be done, although it is only desperate for a short section. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 8's & 9 , Hardest routes in Britain , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , UK smearing corners , North Wales Psyche , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , Another lifelist? , Slate Goals

Feedback

User Date Notes
anguskille 25 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Old bolts throughout the route have been replaced, including the anchor. Quite a lot safer now. No bolts were added to the original route but the first bolt in the groove is a little lower, so it is possible to clip it ground-up, although this would be tricky.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Old bolts throughout the route have been replaced, including the anchor. Quite a lot safer now. No bolts were added to the original route but the first bolt in the groove is a little lower, so it is possible to clip it ground-up, although this would be tricky.
Ben Bouissou 30 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Happy to send this historique rout :-) every pitch at the segond go ! For me: 7C+ 7A+ 8A 7C Slate on the sun was great experience :-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Happy to send this historique rout :-) every pitch at the segond go ! For me: 7C+ 7A+ 8A 7C Slate on the sun was great experience :-)

Logged Ascents

28 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Twll Mawr

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 110 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E9
Mid E9
Low E9
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
Votes cast 2
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Alt Leads
Followed
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Requiem for a Vampire

Grade: E8 6b ***
(Craig Doris)

Loading Notifications...