Altitude 106m a.s.l
Dynoing for the crimp. © rockcat
This quality sheltered and sunny crag has been a local's wll-kept secret since the 1980s. The main crag gives steep sections containing pockets and sharp edges, interspersed with juggy and sometimes slabby breaks, providing climbing which is often strenuous, sometimes surprisingly delicate and at times blind.
Ty Newydd is a sunny and very sheltered crag, lying as it does in a wooded south-facing hollow. In summer, the tree canopy will provide some shade on hot days and in spring/autumn the worst of the cold winds will be kept at bay. The rockface is steep and takes little drainage, so can be dry most of the year.
Park in the Prestatyn to Dyserth Way car park, situated on the north side of the A5151 in the dip just east of the main village.
From the car park, follow the tarmac surface of the Way northwards towards Prestatyn for 100m, to where an arched stone bridge crosses above. Ascend steps to the right of the bridge, pass through a kissing gate amongst the trees, then cross a footbridge onto a track. Turn left and follow the track uphill through rough terrain to where the footpath turns northeasterly along a fenceline; follow this for about 200m to a fence corner about 30m before a gate/stile. Turn right and walk downhill following the fenceline to gain an older fence alongside a wooded area. At the base of the valley, keep following this woodland boundary fence round to the left to reach a gate near the field corner. Go through the gate into the wooded area, head rightwards past old pheasant pens and steeply up to the crag.
2020 Access information
Please note the new start date of Sept 1st for the climbing restrictions!
Also, the landowner now requires that all climbers need to send a text to him, to request permission before going climbing at this venue. This is because there could be authorised target shooting or vermin control operations taking place and the landowner does not want anyone getting injured. Failure to inform the land owner will lead to access being withdrawn. The number to text is 07717257796. to Mr L Jones.
This crag is now subject to a seasonal restriction to protect the interests of the landowner and leaseholder , in particular the rearing of birds (pheasants) at the base of the crag. Please adhere to this restriction and do not climb here between September 1st and February 1st inclusive.
In addition June 22nd to Sept 1st, climbing restricted to 1 hour after sunrise, and all climbers to have vacated the crag 90 mins before sunset.
Climbing here is only allowed with the kind permission of the landowner and the shooting syndicate who lease the site as a location for rearing and shooting game birds. Access should only be as described in the most current versions of the North Wales Limestone and A55 Climbing guidebooks , unless indicated by on site signs. Strictly no dogs allowed at any time.
The crag is on private land and there is not right of access but the farmer at nearby Ty Newydd farm (on the left of the A5151 towards Trelawnyd), Mr Jones, has been most amenable and has very kindly agreed to permit climbing so long as the access stipulation, car parking and approach designated is used. 1. No access to the crag from 29th September to 1st February inclusive (shooting days).
2. Follow the agreed approach route - from the 'Dyserth to Prestatyn walkway' car park, follow the walkway towards Prestatyn to a bridge. Go right before the bridge, up some steps then make your way through two kissing gates, across a footbridge to a track - turn left and follow to a fence. Turn right and follow this fence to another fence surrounding a cultivated area, til you get to a gate - go through this into a small wooded valley and the crag should appear magnificiently on your left.
3. No dogs at any time and no exceptions.
|Cool little crag. The short routes, high quality compact limestone and the woodland setting all combine to to make this place reminiscent of the Frankenjura.|
stp - 12/Sep/15
|Please check out the new climbing restrictions before climbing here: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153141946940711|
Glyn Davidson - 12/Aug/13
|I left my black Casio watch here last night, if anyone picks it up please message me! Thanks|
Mattlamb90 - 10/Jul/13
|The Lower-offs have been stolen from the routes:
Chilly T / Vlad the Implier
AS of 12/10/12 they have not been replaced|
rockcat - 12/Oct/12
|Quality year round venue. Newer climbs need adding to this page now though.|
tom290483 - 24/Feb/12
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer michael burrows