UKC

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liensiwel 26 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Phew, what can I say. Unprotected for the first 8m. No gear at all on the second or middle slab... so that's two ground fall scenarios. Probably my best and most tenuous lead since leading The Padder at Eastby, and that's E1 5b. Topo and route description don't match up so maybe we did something altogether different but I don't think so. I just think the topo is incorrect. This is massively harder than Round the Horn, a comparable slab climb in the same quarry. If that's HVS 4c, then Frank's Slab is E1 5a. Oh, and it's worth a star, maybe 2.
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βeta: Phew, what can I say. Unprotected for the first 8m. No gear at all on the second or middle slab... so that's two ground fall scenarios. Probably my best and most tenuous lead since leading The Padder at Eastby, and that's E1 5b. Topo and route description don't match up so maybe we did something altogether different but I don't think so. I just think the topo is incorrect. This is massively harder than Round the Horn, a comparable slab climb in the same quarry. If that's HVS 4c, then Frank's Slab is E1 5a. Oh, and it's worth a star, maybe 2.

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Route of Interest
Kirkus's Route

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Craig Lloer)

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