UKC Logbook - 'Gravity Man'

20m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

FA. Mick Tighe 1980.

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User	Date
peakyclimber	13 Jul	Show βeta βeta: Absolutely bomber gear, with 2 tough sections but no stopper moves. Went smoothly. Gear was solid. Basically my mate was about to lead it and I said, "I might lead this too". I wasn't sure and was like 50:50, and as it was my first E2, I was looking for guidance. Anyway, when he got to the top he suggested that I might want to second it before I led it. As I was on the fence I took his suggestion, trying it first on second. I actually felt quite nervy seconding it haha. Anyway, I got to the top, abbed off again and went for it. I think leading gave me more focus and I didn't feel nervy at all. I just felt focused and in control. The gear was superbly wicked so I didn't mind making those harder moves. Tbh I found an HVS on grit the other day more touch and go as gear in. Gneiss is more obvious good or not .
Show beta βeta: Absolutely bomber gear, with 2 tough sections but no stopper moves. Went smoothly. Gear was solid. Basically my mate was about to lead it and I said, "I might lead this too". I wasn't sure and was like 50:50, and as it was my first E2, I was looking for guidance. Anyway, when he got to the top he suggested that I might want to second it before I led it. As I was on the fence I took his suggestion, trying it first on second. I actually felt quite nervy seconding it haha. Anyway, I got to the top, abbed off again and went for it. I think leading gave me more focus and I didn't feel nervy at all. I just felt focused and in control. The gear was superbly wicked so I didn't mind making those harder moves. Tbh I found an HVS on grit the other day more touch and go as gear in. Gneiss is more obvious good or not .
John Cuthbert	1 Jul, 2023	Show βeta βeta: A strange route slightly out of place on the extraordinary colour flecked facade of the Painted Geo. it ought to be a straightforward juggy layback crack with bomber gear, but this piece of work just wants to be contrary. The experience instead is a little unsettling; greasy holds even late in the day ( the wall fries in the all day heat of the sun), gear sparse and hardwon, and the jugs are as unhelpful as they are large. Defo not HVS, and almost a romp considering the fabulous location.
Show beta βeta: A strange route slightly out of place on the extraordinary colour flecked facade of the Painted Geo. it ought to be a straightforward juggy layback crack with bomber gear, but this piece of work just wants to be contrary. The experience instead is a little unsettling; greasy holds even late in the day ( the wall fries in the all day heat of the sun), gear sparse and hardwon, and the jugs are as unhelpful as they are large. Defo not HVS, and almost a romp considering the fabulous location.