Rockfax Description
A beautiful wall pitch that gradually picks its way up the central face and culminates in a technical finish. Start at a right to left sloping ramp, 5m right of the start of Living Dead.
Take the straightforward gangway to a sloping ledge at 9m. Climb the steep wall above and slightly right on small positive holds past a slim overlap to a good ledge (small cam optional). Move up the steepening wall on diminishing holds to the final bolt, from where a very thin move gains a good hold and ledge just above, lower-off on the left. The top of the cliff can be gained via a short HVS 5a pitch. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb easily to a ledge at about 8m. Climb past 3 bolts on the lower wall to a good break (old peg). Move up easily to good holds and a bolt. From here a sequence of about 10 moves leads with increasing difficulty to jugs, a ledge, and a two-bolt belay.


Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20, West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+, 3 Star sport climbs below 7b within a 25 mile radius of Bristol


User Date Notes
John Alcock 22 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: New two bolt lower-off directly above the route added 22nd June 2020.
Show beta
βeta: New two bolt lower-off directly above the route added 22nd June 2020.

Logged Ascents

129 users have logged this
31 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

It's a Kind of Magic

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Cheddar Gorge North)
Loading Notifications...