The best climbing faces are available to climbers but access is not permitted to the right of ‘Graveyard Gate’, (with the exclusion of ‘Meet Thy Creator’) to help protect rare plants.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Please do not block the road to the crag - the land is shared with the Uphill boat yard and access may be harmed by inconsiderate parking.
Rockfax Description
A highly regarded trad route that takes on the full height of the tallest section of wall. Start below a prominent peg at 10m, left of the broken corner. Climb easily to below the peg. Clip the peg and move up to a bolt on the left and then on boldly to the break and a peg. Go right and up via hard moves past a peg to the next break and then leftwards to a flake. Move right to pegs and then head for the top up the exposed headwall. Note: the bolts to the right on The Handsome Jim Experience can be reached if needed. The grade is for an ascent without these being utilised. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start below the bolt shared by HJE and JHE. Climb up to the left of the bolt, past a second bolt then boldly to the break. The poor peg in the break can be backed up. Going slightly right leads to a hard move back left past the next peg to good holds and more gear in suspect rock. Climb the crack before moving back right on good holds to two very poor pegs which can be backed up with a small cam. Head for the top up the exposed headwall.
The bolts to the right on The Handsome Jim Experience aren't in but can be reached if needed.
Uphill quarry GWR , Favourite wall climbs , Avon and Cheddar Top One Hundred
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Brean Down)