(The Mosquito) Not a real Lofoten classic but this route has a lot of good climbing and is quite popular. Grass and bushes spoil the overall quality and the lower pitches are poorly protected.
1) N4+, 45m. Start up a V-groove in the left toe of the pillar. Step left at its top and climb a bit higher to a belay above an overlap on a small ledge with a block.
2) N5-, 25m. Traverse right across the blank slab, then continue up and right into a shallow groove with a small stance.
3) N5, 40m. Climb the easy V-groove to another fixed nut, then step left across a short slab into a crack which leads into a groove with small trees and a belay on the right.
4) N4+, 20m. Step right to a layback flake that leads to the V-groove - the route's major feature - which is capped by a huge bulging chockstone. Continue up the groove, past bushes, to a small belay ledge - poor peg belay, it may be better to continue.
5) N5+, 25m. Climb the groove above to the bulge (peg) which requires some tricky bridging. Continue with difficulty up the strenuous corner-crack and belay on a ledge on the left.
6) N5-, 20m. Walk up the grass above, then climb out right around a small roof. Layback up the steep corner forming the right-hand side of the huge jammed chockstone at the top of the main V-groove, to a good stance.
7) N5-, 25m. From the belay traverse right along a horizontal crack then follow easier cracks up to a long narrow belay ledge.
8) N5+, 25m. From the left-hand end of the ledge, hand traverse left along a horizontal crack (peg - very exposed) into another crack and climb up to a ledge. Continue, following a higher crack to another good ledge.
9) N2, 30m. Finish left easily into the shrubbery above.
9a) N6, 30m. For a much better finish, head right up groove, move right to a bulge and continue direct to arrive at the abseil point. © Rockfax
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