Rockfax Description
Two similar lines were climbed by separate teams just a couple of weeks apart. The line here includes all the best climbing.
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1) N6, 35m. Start 20m down and right of Mygga just left of a roof that bars access to twin grooves. Use a jug to reach the first groove. Climb it for a few metres then step right in to the next groove. Pass a grassy section and head up to a small ledge below the next crack. A bold pitch.
2) N5+, 35m. Climb the crack to a roof, traverse right below and continue to a tree belay on a ledge.
3) N5-, 35m. Climb up grass and into a groove. Belay on a small ledge by a bush when the groove steepens.
4) N6-, 45m. Continue up the groove to the second roof and traverse out left to access a groove and continuation crack. This leads to a small belay ledge.
5) N5+, 30m. Continue up the groove then trend diagonally right to another small belay ledge where the groove curves.
6) N6+, 45m. A fine pitch up the diagonal crack/groove. When it ends trend left to a grassy ledge under the next crack. Climb this to reach a comfortable belay ledge under an off-width crack.
7) N6+, 45m. Climb straight up the off-width until the angle starts to ease then finish up slabbier rock - hard! It is also possible traverse to your left to join and finish up the final section of Mygga. © Rockfax
FA. (Pitches 1 and 2) Jukka Leinonen, Jani Ahvenainen, Elina Nokelainen 4/5.07.2013. FA. (Pitches 3 to 7) Aksel Sveum, Knut Stefanussen (as Sommerfuglen) 16.07.2013. FA. (as described) Tapio Alhonsuo, Mira Alhonsuo, Jukka Leinonen 11.07.2014..
User | Date | Notes | ||
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David Craig | 23 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route, start of pitch 1 is hard and not protected. Pitch 4 supposed to be N6+ but felt like N6-, pitch 6 was hard probably N6+. Took left hand finish. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Great route, start of pitch 1 is hard and not protected. Pitch 4 supposed to be N6+ but felt like N6-, pitch 6 was hard probably N6+. Took left hand finish. |
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Grade: n6+ ***
(Djupfjord)