UKC

160m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The finest route of its grade in the Dolomites? Judging from the crowds it would seem that many people agree! Despite the queues and the polish, there is no doubt that this route deserves its acclaim, with fantastic positions and breathtaking exposure at an accessible grade.
Start on the right side of the south face of Torre Delago. Take the large leftwards leading ramp towards the arete.
1) II, 30m. Follow the ledge left then climb an easy ramp still leftwards to a stance just right of the arete.
2) IV+, 30m. Climb juggy holds keeping just right of the arete, then at a peg move left to reach the arete proper. Follow this with the first taste of exposure to a ledge on the right.
3) IV, 25m. Move back left onto the arete, now with superb exposure, and skate up the polish to another ledge on the right.
4) IV, 25m. Back onto the arete for a few metres then enter a short corner on the right wall to reach a stance on the left.
5) IV, 25m. Follow a flake right, climb a pale slab direct then move back left towards the arete again.
6) III, 25m. Follow easier rock right to the crowded summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
South-West Arete, Delago Tower. Stroll from the Alberto Hut up and left to the ridge (15 mins). Follow the ridge, including a exposed and exciting stance on the edge of all things,. Spectacular views to the left and everywhere !!! My son's first Dolomitic summit !!(2 hours). Abseil rings in place.

Giovanni Battista Piaz, Francesco Jori, Irma Glaser Aug/1911.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Big Routes , Dolomites Trip , Dolomites easy multipitch , Big Pitches 4 Buff Boyz , Dolomites

Feedback

User Date Notes
FrankieMac 10 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: For those descending from the Delago or Stabeler there is an alternative abseil piste which has been equipped just to the right (facing in) of the main chimney at the chock stone. This might be a safer option when there are parties above you waiting to rap, and seems to be favoured by guides.
βeta?
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βeta: For those descending from the Delago or Stabeler there is an alternative abseil piste which has been equipped just to the right (facing in) of the main chimney at the chock stone. This might be a safer option when there are parties above you waiting to rap, and seems to be favoured by guides.
malcolm.harris 12 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Generally good rock and polish didn\'t ruin it at all. Final pitch however was so chossy it made it the most dangerous pitch by far. Maybe I went wrong way but don\'t think so.
βeta?
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βeta: Generally good rock and polish didn't ruin it at all. Final pitch however was so chossy it made it the most dangerous pitch by far. Maybe I went wrong way but don't think so.
ArozNick 16 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: "Simul-Abseil"
βeta?
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βeta: "Simul-Abseil"
Bruise Apprentice 17 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The shuttle to Rifugio Gardeccia no longer exists. Take the cable car from Pera and pay for a ticket for Vajolet 1 and Vajolet 2. From Vajolet 2, the path to Gardeccia and then to Vajolet is well signposted. The water fountain at Gardeccia is the last place you can fill up your water for free - it's currently €3/litre of water at Rifugio Vajolet.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The shuttle to Rifugio Gardeccia no longer exists. Take the cable car from Pera and pay for a ticket for Vajolet 1 and Vajolet 2. From Vajolet 2, the path to Gardeccia and then to Vajolet is well signposted. The water fountain at Gardeccia is the last place you can fill up your water for free - it's currently €3/litre of water at Rifugio Vajolet.

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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Via del Diedro - Torre del Barancio Summit

Grade: IV+ ***
(Cinque Torri)

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