25m.
A fine, open climb, the best of the crag. Start, as for Telemachus at the bottom of the groove, right of the main slab.
Step onto the slab and climb up and right onto a ledge at the foot of an overhang groove. Climb steeply up the groove to the overhang (old peg), and using small friable flakes make a semi-hand traverse and long stride left to a small footledge at the bottom of another open groove. Climb onto a higher ledge by delicate moves and then up the steep corner above to the top. Two bolts belay on the left.
Step onto the slab and climb up and right onto a ledge at the foot of an overhang groove. Climb steeply up the groove to the overhang (old peg), and using small friable flakes make a semi-hand traverse and long stride left to a small footledge at the bottom of another open groove. Climb onto a higher ledge by delicate moves and then up the steep corner above to the top. Two bolts belay on the left.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| crispycodd | 11 Jun, 2024 |
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βeta: Belay bolt at top is loose but there are two more at the top of Tiptoe. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Belay bolt at top is loose but there are two more at the top of Tiptoe. |
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| Steve Neads | 29 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: A nice route but a little dusty at the top. Watch out for broken glass at the bottom. | ||
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βeta: A nice route but a little dusty at the top. Watch out for broken glass at the bottom. |
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| Oliver Smaje | 1 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Lots of loose holds just before the topout- take care! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lots of loose holds just before the topout- take care! |
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| Gazza B | 17 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Lots of broken glass and litter around witch is a shame as is a really nice area. Seems to be a regular drinking/party area for teens. Glass has been thrown up the crag as well so climb with caution. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lots of broken glass and litter around witch is a shame as is a really nice area. Seems to be a regular drinking/party area for teens. Glass has been thrown up the crag as well so climb with caution. |
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Route of Interest
Rob's Crack
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Fairy Cave Quarry)