UKC

600m, 22 pitches. From the base of the crag, ascent 1 pitch up, then traverse left, before ascending again (LE PILIER DES ÉCUREUILS).
Make a very pitch before a long pitch takes you up right, past a tree to the start of a traverse section (LE RÂTEAU DE CHÈVRE).
Traverse 45m (may require two pitches) to a belay, then ascend a steep slab above using metal rungs to another belay. To the left here there is a wooden plank bridge to the dividing point for the more difficult L'Epiron des Guides (straight up) or the normal route (traverse right).
After a long traverse and shabby ascent, the two routes rejoin. Traverse and descend to a belay then move up and across over small vertical sections, at one point descending to two wooden plank bridges, before the gradient eases to the summit.

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