Rockfax Description
An excellent tour of the buttress that culminates in a superbly positioned final crack pitch. Well protected. Start on the path below a low-angled rib as for Malediction Direct.
1) 24m. As for Malediction Direct.
2) 13m. Move right and climb the right-trending line for 9m, then move right to a belay at a large spike.
3) 4b, 12m. Climb the appealing hand/finger-crack on the left to a sloping ledge. Move left and climb the final wall to the top on good holds. © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| cathsullivan | 24 May |
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βeta: The crux pitch is 4b. If it feels 5a you're going the wrong way. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The crux pitch is 4b. If it feels 5a you're going the wrong way. |
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| C Rettiw | 8 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Great route. High VS 4c probably; possibly low HVS 5a. Best done as scramble followed by one long, thrilling pitch. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Great route. High VS 4c probably; possibly low HVS 5a. Best done as scramble followed by one long, thrilling pitch. |
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Route of Interest
Bilberry Buttress
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Raven Crag (Langdale))