UKC

Rockfax Description
An excellent tour of the buttress that culminates in a superbly positioned final crack pitch. Well protected. Start on the path below a low-angled rib as for Malediction Direct.
1) 24m. As for Malediction Direct.
2) 13m. Move right and climb the right-trending line for 9m, then move right to a belay at a large spike.
3) 4b, 12m. Climb the appealing hand/finger-crack on the left to a sloping ledge. Move left and climb the final wall to the top on good holds. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
C Witter 8 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. High VS 4c probably; possibly low HVS 5a. Best done as scramble followed by one long, thrilling pitch.
Show beta
βeta: Great route. High VS 4c probably; possibly low HVS 5a. Best done as scramble followed by one long, thrilling pitch.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 65
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 56
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Eagle Front

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Eagle Crag (Buttermere))

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