UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
Serious bouldery moves are required to reach a protruding peg on the bulging wall. Continue direct to the top break and a fixed belay. Originally it traversed into the peg from Jaws. © Rockfax

FA. Malcom Taylor 1991. FA. (original) Paul Mitchell 1986 31/Oct/1991.

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User Date Notes
Peaklime_bagger 4 Mar Show βeta
βeta: The peg was replaced with a bolt and a double-bolt anchor at the ledge negates the need for the choss top-out. Originally climbed as an "ankle snapping" solo (at least to the peg); modern sensibilities - i.e. bouldering pads or clip-stick - reduce the danger but not the (considerable) technical difficulty. Font7B/+ or 8a/+. Easier than Caviar but perhaps not by much. The prudent may want a wire to protect the easy climbing from the break to the ledge.
Show beta
βeta: The peg was replaced with a bolt and a double-bolt anchor at the ledge negates the need for the choss top-out. Originally climbed as an "ankle snapping" solo (at least to the peg); modern sensibilities - i.e. bouldering pads or clip-stick - reduce the danger but not the (considerable) technical difficulty. Font7B/+ or 8a/+. Easier than Caviar but perhaps not by much. The prudent may want a wire to protect the easy climbing from the break to the ledge.

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Route of Interest
Highball That You Bastards!

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)

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