UKC Logbook - 'Plectrum Maxilla Direct'

18m.

Rockfax Description
Serious bouldery moves are required to reach a protruding peg on the bulging wall. Continue direct to the top break and a fixed belay. Originally it traversed into the peg from Jaws. © Rockfax

FA. Malcom Taylor 1991. FA. (original) Paul Mitchell 1986 31/Oct/1991.

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User	Date
Peaklime_bagger	24 Nov, 2024	Show βeta βeta: The peg was replaced with a bolt and a double-bolt anchor at the ledge negates the need for the choss top-out. Originally climbed as an "ankle snapping" solo (at least to the peg); modern sensibilities - i.e. bouldering pads or clip-stick - reduce the danger but not the (considerable) technical difficulty. Font7B/+ or 8a/+. Easier than Caviar but perhaps not by much. The prudent may want a wire (many options) to protect the easy climbing from the break to the ledge.
Show beta βeta: The peg was replaced with a bolt and a double-bolt anchor at the ledge negates the need for the choss top-out. Originally climbed as an "ankle snapping" solo (at least to the peg); modern sensibilities - i.e. bouldering pads or clip-stick - reduce the danger but not the (considerable) technical difficulty. Font7B/+ or 8a/+. Easier than Caviar but perhaps not by much. The prudent may want a wire (many options) to protect the easy climbing from the break to the ledge.
samrad	5 Jul, 2024	Show βeta βeta: Size 4 and 5 wires in a pod at the obvious break protect the run out from the bolt to the chains. Although the climbing is easy the rock quality up to the ledge is not great or well trafficked yet and you would deck if something broke so it is worthwhile taking some medium wires or small cams IMO.
Show beta βeta: Size 4 and 5 wires in a pod at the obvious break protect the run out from the bolt to the chains. Although the climbing is easy the rock quality up to the ledge is not great or well trafficked yet and you would deck if something broke so it is worthwhile taking some medium wires or small cams IMO.