UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
The classic of the crag, surprisingly steep and pumpy for its time. Climb the left arete to ledges then step right and layback into the finger-crack that splits the centre of the tower. Finish on the left arete. Starting up the right arete is an option at the same grade. © Rockfax

FA. Tom Stobart (solo) 1933.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Wharncliffe, Wharncliffe Crags, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, The Gritlist, Routes Chloe would recommend, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Wharncliffe Hoary Classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ackbar 9 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Have now completed the Wharncliffe Trilogy of Puttrell's Progress, Towerface and Himmelswillen. I checked the name in a german dictionary and it means something like "for heaven's sake" which seemed appropriate. I had a bit of a mare getting gear. Great route.
βeta?
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βeta: Have now completed the Wharncliffe Trilogy of Puttrell's Progress, Towerface and Himmelswillen. I checked the name in a german dictionary and it means something like "for heaven's sake" which seemed appropriate. I had a bit of a mare getting gear. Great route.
mark75 29 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Was very glad to get to the ledge. Seems like 4c to me. Knee bar feels amazing. Lovely flake. Definitely the best route I've done at Wharnecliffe.
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βeta: Was very glad to get to the ledge. Seems like 4c to me. Knee bar feels amazing. Lovely flake. Definitely the best route I've done at Wharnecliffe.
Fidget 26 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I also found the first layaway up to the flake quick tricky, although probably because I was a little tired from a full day, and pausing to place gear. Not as hard as the start though, those that say 4b - did you use the boulder for your feet when you laybacked? I religiously stuck to face & arete only! Very similar route to Hades at Baildon.
 
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βeta: I also found the first layaway up to the flake quick tricky, although probably because I was a little tired from a full day, and pausing to place gear. Not as hard as the start though, those that say 4b - did you use the boulder for your feet when you laybacked? I religiously stuck to face & arete only! Very similar route to Hades at Baildon.
JohnHutch 2 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I found the first layaway up the flake really hard. 4c certainly. Missed something?
βeta?
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βeta: I found the first layaway up the flake really hard. 4c certainly. Missed something?
Alex Mason 8 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: nice route! the climbing is really straight forward but the gear isnt so easy to place the flakes are flared! but still great route
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βeta: nice route! the climbing is really straight forward but the gear isnt so easy to place the flakes are flared! but still great route
Jon Greengrass 26 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: a lovely route the starts the tricky bit and as MrT says the knee bar rest is very cool, bomber gear all the way, how much can you place to piss of your second before you get pumped?
βeta?
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βeta: a lovely route the starts the tricky bit and as MrT says the knee bar rest is very cool, bomber gear all the way, how much can you place to piss of your second before you get pumped?
McBirdy 16 Jan, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A nice route, which was climbable in the wet which is always a bonus. The big ledge on the left (which the climber in the photo has his hand on) makes the layback straightforward. The route is more satisfying if you don't use this ledge! 4b using this ledge IMO, and 4c without. Really nice route, with satisfying moves on positive holds. Good gear as well, although best done on half ropes. Enjoy!
βeta?
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βeta: A nice route, which was climbable in the wet which is always a bonus. The big ledge on the left (which the climber in the photo has his hand on) makes the layback straightforward. The route is more satisfying if you don't use this ledge! 4b using this ledge IMO, and 4c without. Really nice route, with satisfying moves on positive holds. Good gear as well, although best done on half ropes. Enjoy!
Nick Smith - Climbers 2 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The bottom of this route is thuggy and reachy for the short, but with some fine climbing above. A bit overrated!
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βeta: The bottom of this route is thuggy and reachy for the short, but with some fine climbing above. A bit overrated!

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The File

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Higgar Tor)
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