UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
A fine mini-expedition. Climb the right arete of the big cave and enter the vertical slot with difficulty. Make a bold-feeling traverse left and finish up the steep juggy crack. © Rockfax

FA. J.W.Puttrell et al c.1900.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Puttrell's Progress , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , The Peak: Past and Present , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/1/ The 1st Peak District Tigers. , Wharncliffe Crags , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , The Advanced Beginner , Ben n Ken’s rad trad adventure , 35 Stars At Wharncliffe Challange , Peak Crack Trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
richardbaxter 29 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: After a few solos on this route over the last few years I decided to lead it again so that a novice could do his first climb as a second (forgot his climbing shoes so did it in Sambas) . Three gear placements used and I seem to find it an easier route than suggested, maybe it's because I'm short and find it easier and more fluid than the taller people I climb with.
βeta?
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βeta: After a few solos on this route over the last few years I decided to lead it again so that a novice could do his first climb as a second (forgot his climbing shoes so did it in Sambas) . Three gear placements used and I seem to find it an easier route than suggested, maybe it's because I'm short and find it easier and more fluid than the taller people I climb with.
milanboez 21 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I found this really hard for the grade - perhaps not helped by wet holds on the traverse and maybe I traversed too low (there was only one tiny foothold!?)? It was an experience though!
βeta?
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βeta: I found this really hard for the grade - perhaps not helped by wet holds on the traverse and maybe I traversed too low (there was only one tiny foothold!?)? It was an experience though!
mark75 29 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Intimidating but simple.
βeta?
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βeta: Intimidating but simple.
Offwidth 6 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Dear Mat. The squirm into the cave is protected with a hex just left. Still given Diff in the new BMC guide (The Flue) but at least its no longer a Mod!
βeta?
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βeta: Dear Mat. The squirm into the cave is protected with a hex just left. Still given Diff in the new BMC guide (The Flue) but at least its no longer a Mod!
Rampikino 6 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Magnificent. But, if you are just breaking into the grade this will challenge you on 3 fronts - the unprotected squirm into the cave, the wonderful traverse (well protected) and the steep crack. Some harder graded routes feel easier...
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βeta: Magnificent. But, if you are just breaking into the grade this will challenge you on 3 fronts - the unprotected squirm into the cave, the wonderful traverse (well protected) and the steep crack. Some harder graded routes feel easier...
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A fabulous route, definitely not one to be missed. Getting established in the wide crack near the start can be an entertaining struggle, especially for the short!
βeta?
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βeta: A fabulous route, definitely not one to be missed. Getting established in the wide crack near the start can be an entertaining struggle, especially for the short!

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