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12m.

Rockfax Description
The left-hand facet of the square buttress is split by a thin crack. Approach this via a short slab (awkward for the short and with poor protection), then climb it using the arete on the right as and when needed. A finish to the left extends the pleasure a bit.
See © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne 1933.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Northern Grit 100 VD - VS, The Peak: Past and Present, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten, Wharncliffe, Wharncliffe Crags, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, The Gritlist, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Routes Chloe would recommend, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
kempy7 11 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fun!
 
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βeta: Fun!
Fidget 26 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This becomes much harder if you have it in your head that you want to climb where the crack is, rather than climbing over at the arete :S
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βeta: This becomes much harder if you have it in your head that you want to climb where the crack is, rather than climbing over at the arete :S
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: what a great route if you are moving up the grades. from below looks a lot harder so once you are on it and find all the jolds open up to you it's a treat. been back and climbed this 3 times still a top climb whatever grade you may have moved on up to
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βeta: what a great route if you are moving up the grades. from below looks a lot harder so once you are on it and find all the jolds open up to you it's a treat. been back and climbed this 3 times still a top climb whatever grade you may have moved on up to
Northern Mountain Monkey 21 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Did I find a hidden hold? I thought it was a S 4b although I am 6'4'' so is it harder for the short? NMM
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βeta: Did I find a hidden hold? I thought it was a S 4b although I am 6'4'' so is it harder for the short? NMM
Iggy_B 18 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice big holds after the slab, don't miss the footholds directly underneath it like I did, made it quite reachy.
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βeta: Nice big holds after the slab, don't miss the footholds directly underneath it like I did, made it quite reachy.
Alex Mason 8 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: yeah nice little lead bottom section quite airy! after the the moves flow so well!
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βeta: yeah nice little lead bottom section quite airy! after the the moves flow so well!
Simon Caldwell 29 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed it again on Saturday, and I still think it's harder than Himmelswillen. They're exactly equally as good ;-)
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βeta: Climbed it again on Saturday, and I still think it's harder than Himmelswillen. They're exactly equally as good ;-)
Jus 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry Birkby, Tower Face rules! :o)
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βeta: Sorry Birkby, Tower Face rules! :o)
Jon Greengrass 26 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: looks like a desperate finger crack from below, once up there hidden jugs abound. Very pleasant. a good safe lead
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βeta: looks like a desperate finger crack from below, once up there hidden jugs abound. Very pleasant. a good safe lead
Nick Smith - Climbers 2 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Superb - a much better route than Himmelswillen!
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βeta: Superb - a much better route than Himmelswillen!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 157
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 149
Votes cast 144
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Mutiny Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Burbage North)