Rockfax Description
A great line that tackles the cracks in the smooth wall right of the Slab Routes. This is the original version which makes the most of the wall at a reasonable grade. There is an alternative second pitch at a bold E1 5b. Start below a straight crack in the middle of the wall.
1) 5a, 28m. Climb up easy ground to the crack. Follow it to some tricky moves that gain a small ledge, then pull up left to another crack. This leads to a spike belay on The Slabs Route 1.
2) 4b, 10m. Climb direct up easy ground to a big ledge. Escape by walking/scrambling off carefully leftwards from here.
2a) E1 5b, 12m. Move right from the belay to below a diagonal crack. Climb the crack and then the wall rightwards past a streak to the ledge. Small wires protect. © Rockfax
FA. M.Sinker, R.Isherwood 8.9.1963,FA. (Right-hand Finish) R.Graham, A.Hyslop, T.W.Birkett 4.1980 08/Sep/1963.
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shepherd’s Crag)