2 pitches.
A great line that tackles the cracks in the smooth wall right of the Slab Routes. This is the original version which makes the most of the wall at a reasonable grade. There is an alternative second pitch at a bold E1 5b.
1) 5a, 28m. Start below a straight crack in the middle of the wall. Climb up easy ground to the crack. Follow this to some tricky moves to a small ledge then pull up left to another crack. This leads to a spike belay on Slab Route 1.
2) 4b, 10m. Climb direct up easy ground to a big ledge. Escape by walking of carefully leftwards from here.
2a) E1 5b, 12m. Move right from the belay to below a diagonal crack. Climb the crack and then the wall rightwards past a streak to the ledge. Small wires protect.
1) 5a, 28m. Start below a straight crack in the middle of the wall. Climb up easy ground to the crack. Follow this to some tricky moves to a small ledge then pull up left to another crack. This leads to a spike belay on Slab Route 1.
2) 4b, 10m. Climb direct up easy ground to a big ledge. Escape by walking of carefully leftwards from here.
2a) E1 5b, 12m. Move right from the belay to below a diagonal crack. Climb the crack and then the wall rightwards past a streak to the ledge. Small wires protect.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Witter | 12 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Alan James's comment below is justified, in as much as stepping right from the ledge to climb the more difficult slab is to some extent seeking challenge for the sake of challenge, as a more direct and easier finish is more "logical". However, the climbing gained by moving right from the ledge is harder, more fun, more exciting, and cleaner. For the confident, it is best to climb the whole route as one pitch, with the rh 5b variation via the ragged thin flake cracks. The runout is significant and you get into a situation where it would be really illadvised to fall off before the hardest climbing is over. Steady 5b but bold enough to put it at the top of the E1 grade, maybe softish E2. Three stars?! Certainly very worthwhile. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Alan James's comment below is justified, in as much as stepping right from the ledge to climb the more difficult slab is to some extent seeking challenge for the sake of challenge, as a more direct and easier finish is more "logical". However, the climbing gained by moving right from the ledge is harder, more fun, more exciting, and cleaner. For the confident, it is best to climb the whole route as one pitch, with the rh 5b variation via the ragged thin flake cracks. The runout is significant and you get into a situation where it would be really illadvised to fall off before the hardest climbing is over. Steady 5b but bold enough to put it at the top of the E1 grade, maybe softish E2. Three stars?! Certainly very worthwhile. |
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| Alan James - UKC and UKH | 9 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Odd route. The climbing is really good but the top pitch appears to be very artificial and the one people are struggling with judging by the feedback. The original version which tackles the lower two cracks to the spike belay shared with Route 1, can then be finished direct easily to give a brilliant HVS 5a. The E1 5b alternative may give some good moves but it really is a variation on the better direct line. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Odd route. The climbing is really good but the top pitch appears to be very artificial and the one people are struggling with judging by the feedback. The original version which tackles the lower two cracks to the spike belay shared with Route 1, can then be finished direct easily to give a brilliant HVS 5a. The E1 5b alternative may give some good moves but it really is a variation on the better direct line. |
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Route of Interest
Poker Face
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Pavey Ark)