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Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

16m.

Rockfax Description
A bold outing up the steep face to the right of the continuous crack-line of Wipe Out. Climb the wall on good slots to the break (peg) and then a little higher to a bolt. Pass this with difficulty leftwards to reach easier ground in the green groove. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Cronshaw (2 points) 1971 FFA. Dougie Hall 1982.

Ticklists

Wilton wanderers

Feedback

User Date Notes
hamer89 30 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely desperate move by the bolt. Probably 6c unless your really tall
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Absolutely desperate move by the bolt. Probably 6c unless your really tall
tintinandpip 30 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Very tough at the grade. In-situ gear all in excellent condition.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very tough at the grade. In-situ gear all in excellent condition.
hamer89 20 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Really tough long move near the bolt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really tough long move near the bolt.
themattyshep 23 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Hard move to get past the bolt and get to good holds
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard move to get past the bolt and get to good holds

Logged Ascents

27 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wilton 1

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 3 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 7
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Onsighted
Ground Up
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Renaissance

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Upperwood Quarry)

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