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Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

18m.

Rockfax Description
The seam left of the arete gives superb steep wall climbing, although the gear (small wires) is a little spaced. One for a steady leader but not really too hard for E1. © Rockfax

FA. Ray Evans 1964.

Ticklists

Very good routes in the UK , Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Classic Wilton Workout , World Graded List , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Wilton wanderers , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Definitive *** Lancs Grit , McCoys Homestyle trad , 100 Best Routes on Grit

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User Date Notes
radddogg 16 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I\'ve had my eye on this for 8 years since I started climbing properly and today was the day. The accident in 2019 was weighing in my mind as I geared up but once I started I found the climbing was pretty steady. There were no desperate moves just a few committing ones. The gear was only slightly runout in places and I didn't think it was particularly poorly protected. Small wires and cams, micro nuts really not needed. Absolute delight of a climb for my 100th route of the year.
βeta?
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βeta: I've had my eye on this for 8 years since I started climbing properly and today was the day. The accident in 2019 was weighing in my mind as I geared up but once I started I found the climbing was pretty steady. There were no desperate moves just a few committing ones. The gear was only slightly runout in places and I didn't think it was particularly poorly protected. Small wires and cams, micro nuts really not needed. Absolute delight of a climb for my 100th route of the year.
ipfreely 10 Dec, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very good, looks like a bit of a bully from the ground, but it backs down somewhat when fronted up to, the gear is spaced though and true safety comes at around the 3rd piece.
βeta?
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βeta: Very good, looks like a bit of a bully from the ground, but it backs down somewhat when fronted up to, the gear is spaced though and true safety comes at around the 3rd piece.
JR 15 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: this really is E1. Why it has been downgraded is beyond me. There are starred E2s in the lancs quarries which feel as difficult. Although technically quite easy, the gear is not brilliant, lots of it, but the good stuff is well spaced. Requires a cool head for the entire length.
βeta?
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βeta: this really is E1. Why it has been downgraded is beyond me. There are starred E2s in the lancs quarries which feel as difficult. Although technically quite easy, the gear is not brilliant, lots of it, but the good stuff is well spaced. Requires a cool head for the entire length.
Matt_b 12 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Gear is thin wires and well spaced. I'd say low end e1.
βeta?
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βeta: Gear is thin wires and well spaced. I'd say low end e1.
Richard Hession 14 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Did it yesterday and I thought the gear was bomber personally, was always comfortable placing it and it felt a bit soft touch for E1? :S
βeta?
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βeta: Did it yesterday and I thought the gear was bomber personally, was always comfortable placing it and it felt a bit soft touch for E1? :S
Andy Farnell 2 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Deffo E1. Not hard technically, but bold, run -out on small wires requiring a cool head.
βeta?
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βeta: Deffo E1. Not hard technically, but bold, run -out on small wires requiring a cool head.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wilton 1

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 186
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 181
Votes cast 168
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Route

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wilton 1)

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