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USER ATTENTION

Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

14m.

Rockfax Description
Steady climbing with a bold feel. Gear in the midway break gives protection that is just about adequate. Climb the reachy lower wall via a thin crack to ledges then attack the upper face by a line of (small) chipped holds. The route is substantially harder for the short. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The centre of the smooth face, taken very directly via chipped holds to finish. A long reach to the first of the twin breaks provides the technical crux, having patience and skill to fiddle in adequate gear in the upper break provides the adjectival crux. E2 with side-runners.

FA. Hank Pasquill 1967.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Wilton wanderers , McCoys Homestyle trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
Simon Caldwell 6 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Richie, do you think the average 5b climber would need the gear if he hadn't previously top-roped the route? ;-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Richie, do you think the average 5b climber would need the gear if he hadn't previously top-roped the route? ;-)
JR 29 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely E3, especially when it starts pissing it down on the last moves!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely E3, especially when it starts pissing it down on the last moves!

Logged Ascents

467 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wilton 1

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 63 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 81
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 78
Votes cast 72
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
White Slabs Bunt

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Wilton 1)

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