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Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

24m.

Rockfax Description
A super climb when clean and then the match of anything at Millstone. Well protected and sustained rather than overly technical. Climb the fingery lower wall to the big break then step left and power up the fine continuation crack until respite arrives on the Western Terrace. Escape off left or lower-off from the tree. © Rockfax

FA. Ken Powell 1964 FFA Ian Lonsdale late 1970s.

Ticklists

Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , 50 cracks to Squamish , Wilton wanderers , Definitive *** Lancs Grit , E3's for 2020 , McCoys Homestyle trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
datoon 14 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Lowering off is the thing to do... The technical crux is low down, although the bit after the ledge is rather committing...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lowering off is the thing to do... The technical crux is low down, although the bit after the ledge is rather committing...
Tim Broughtonshaw 30 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Maybe hard E2. The gear is good except for the moves after the break. A bit sapced on RP's 2 and 4. Then excellent gear. Watch out for sand on your shoes fron the break. The tat on tha lower off is OK.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Maybe hard E2. The gear is good except for the moves after the break. A bit sapced on RP's 2 and 4. Then excellent gear. Watch out for sand on your shoes fron the break. The tat on tha lower off is OK.

Logged Ascents

147 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wilton 1

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 31
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wilton Wall

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Wilton 2)

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