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Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

16m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the wall past twin overlaps then finish up the bold and technical wall above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An attractive open face guarded by a very fierce start. Mantle the ledge at 5m via a razor crimp (possible skyhook or more likely a stack of pads), then truck steeply up to juggy flakes. Weave boldly up the headwall first right then left to finish.

FA. Hank Pasquill 1973.

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wilton 1

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 4
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Loopy

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Wilton 1)

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