UKC

Restricted Access

Wilton 3 is owned by Bolton Gun Club with agreed times for shooting and climbing - live firing takes place and it is vital that climbers understand and follow the agreed access arrangements. A new approach has recently been agreed – please see the ‘access’ section below for details as the old approach through the front gate is no longer possible.

Climbers have priority on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Shooters have priority on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays and if shooting, red flags will be flying around the top of the quarry as well as on the approach.

On shooting days when the red warning flags are not in place, climbers can access the quarries, but if shooters arrive later, please pack up and leave as soon as safely possible. Please try to avoid the temptation of assuming that the ranges are not being used until at least mid-afternoon. On days when climbers have priority, the shooters can use the sites if climbers are not present when they arrive. However, if climbers arrive shooting must stop. If shooting is taking place on a climbing day, enter the quarry using the route detailed in the ‘access’ section below and approach the shooters hut along the newly landscaped path (which takes you safely behind the line of fire). Politely ask the shooters to stop and allow them a reasonable amount of time to clear up.

Climbers have an additional day in Wilton 3 on Mondays compared to Wilton 2 & 4. If the neighbouring gun club are using Wilton 2 but Wilton 3 is not being used, climbers can still use Wilton 3, provided that they do not climb the routes on Orange Wall (i.e. routes between Twin Cracks and Orange Corner inclusive). On these days, climbers must not pass the fence on the ridge between Wilton 2 and 3 or descend past it.

12m.

Rockfax Description
The superb jamming-crack is sadly short-lived but near perfection whilst it lasts. The crucial thin lower section (5b for individuals with fat hands) can be passed using small edges on either side of the crack. © Rockfax

FA. Rowland Edwards 1964.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Classic Wilton Workout , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Definitive *** Lancs Grit , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 25 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky for HVS! 5b bottom section in my book, but, I do have fat hands.
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βeta: Tricky for HVS! 5b bottom section in my book, but, I do have fat hands.
mountainremedy 25 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Someone has got a green dragon stuck right where you’d get a good hand jam.
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βeta: Someone has got a green dragon stuck right where you’d get a good hand jam.
Kyuzo 6 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable, fun to try doing it without jamming.
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βeta: Very enjoyable, fun to try doing it without jamming.
Pekkie 19 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This has got rather polished over the 15 years since I last did it. Well protected and short-lived but must be approaching 5b technically now.
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βeta: This has got rather polished over the 15 years since I last did it. Well protected and short-lived but must be approaching 5b technically now.
Martin Dale 15 Aug, 1974 Show βeta
βeta: Not the best ascent! But, the first of many!
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βeta: Not the best ascent! But, the first of many!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wilton 3

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 97
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 90
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Freddie's Finale

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Wimberry Rocks)

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