UKC

Restricted Access

Wilton 3 is owned by Bolton Gun Club with agreed times for shooting and climbing - live firing takes place and it is vital that climbers understand and follow the agreed access arrangements. A new approach has recently been agreed – please see the ‘access’ section below for details as the old approach through the front gate is no longer possible.

Climbers have priority on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Shooters have priority on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays and if shooting, red flags will be flying around the top of the quarry as well as on the approach.

On shooting days when the red warning flags are not in place, climbers can access the quarries, but if shooters arrive later, please pack up and leave as soon as safely possible. Please try to avoid the temptation of assuming that the ranges are not being used until at least mid-afternoon. On days when climbers have priority, the shooters can use the sites if climbers are not present when they arrive. However, if climbers arrive shooting must stop. If shooting is taking place on a climbing day, enter the quarry using the route detailed in the ‘access’ section below and approach the shooters hut along the newly landscaped path (which takes you safely behind the line of fire). Politely ask the shooters to stop and allow them a reasonable amount of time to clear up.

Climbers have an additional day in Wilton 3 on Mondays compared to Wilton 2 & 4. If the neighbouring gun club are using Wilton 2 but Wilton 3 is not being used, climbers can still use Wilton 3, provided that they do not climb the routes on Orange Wall (i.e. routes between Twin Cracks and Orange Corner inclusive). On these days, climbers must not pass the fence on the ridge between Wilton 2 and 3 or descend past it.

14m.

Rockfax Description
The striking arete has an technical upper section, it is low in the grade and popular. Starts can be made from either side and a solid cemented peg protects the delightfully technical moves. © Rockfax

FA. Hank Pasquill 1968.

Ticklists

Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Classic Wilton Workout , Definitive *** Lancs Grit

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 25 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax description looks stupid now, given that the peg snapped at less than 1kn when tested (so much for "a solid cemented peg protects..."); even given the age of the guidebook those words are copied from, a guidebook writer should know better than to run their mouth off about how solid or not a peg is (and will be in the future of their reader). Feel ambivalent about the new shiny bolt, though of course I gladly clipped it. Two people suggesting E3 and a ground sweeper is likely without it, which seems right: probably more dangerous than Cheat with side runners, though easier. Started on the right, you at least have a bold start, which was kind of fun. There are two thin moves above the bolt that are, honestly, quite tricky for 5b... but think this possibly deserves a downgrade to HVS 5b - especially if started on the left. Whatever: it's a fun route and a lovely top section, especially when you know you're not going to die, ridiculously, on the hill of UK climbing ethics.
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βeta: Rockfax description looks stupid now, given that the peg snapped at less than 1kn when tested (so much for "a solid cemented peg protects..."); even given the age of the guidebook those words are copied from, a guidebook writer should know better than to run their mouth off about how solid or not a peg is (and will be in the future of their reader). Feel ambivalent about the new shiny bolt, though of course I gladly clipped it. Two people suggesting E3 and a ground sweeper is likely without it, which seems right: probably more dangerous than Cheat with side runners, though easier. Started on the right, you at least have a bold start, which was kind of fun. There are two thin moves above the bolt that are, honestly, quite tricky for 5b... but think this possibly deserves a downgrade to HVS 5b - especially if started on the left. Whatever: it's a fun route and a lovely top section, especially when you know you're not going to die, ridiculously, on the hill of UK climbing ethics.
Rock142 2 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: With the new bolt it the crux is less committing. Still a nice route.
βeta?
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βeta: With the new bolt it the crux is less committing. Still a nice route.
JR 15 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: not all that bad at all for E1
βeta?
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βeta: not all that bad at all for E1
Pekkie 19 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with the previous two comments. The bottom half is straightforward and well protected - clipping the peg is OK and at the crux move the peg (which looks good) is by your waist. E1 5b, deserves three stars.
βeta?
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βeta: Agree with the previous two comments. The bottom half is straightforward and well protected - clipping the peg is OK and at the crux move the peg (which looks good) is by your waist. E1 5b, deserves three stars.

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Guidebooks for Wilton 3

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 125
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 118
Votes cast 112
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Trident

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wimberry Rocks)

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