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20m.

Rockfax Description
From the foot of The Trident gain and follow the curving flake leftwards out into the middle of the wall (good gear - very hard to place) and climb this trending left again to the edge of the huge overhang and an easier finish. Maybe only 6b for the tall. © Rockfax

FA. Nick Plishko 1986

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Peak Rock/16/Eighties Gritstone :The Shape of Things to Come, Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit

Feedback

User Date Notes
ste_d 3 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I don't think it inappropriate use of this space. i thought this space was a forum to discuss routes? As Jon notes, the old moorland grit guide is quite vague about some of the 'antics' involved in first ascents...simply stating the protection was "cunningly placed from below" is very vague, perhaps due to that vagueness i was quite happy for another to pre-place my gear by ab prior to ascent, if i had known differently about what "cunningly placed from below" actually meant in practice i may have acted differently...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I don't think it inappropriate use of this space. i thought this space was a forum to discuss routes? As Jon notes, the old moorland grit guide is quite vague about some of the 'antics' involved in first ascents...simply stating the protection was "cunningly placed from below" is very vague, perhaps due to that vagueness i was quite happy for another to pre-place my gear by ab prior to ascent, if i had known differently about what "cunningly placed from below" actually meant in practice i may have acted differently...
Jon Read 5 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Well, apologies if I've offended you in some way by asking questions, and relatively benign ones at that! Sheesh. Anyway, thank you for providing further details, which is what I was after in the first place. The comment in the last guide stated something like: wire preplaced with stick. Not having the good fortune to be involved with the first ascent, and reading of other routes at the same crag employing fishing rods to clip bolts(!), I had no idea how long a stick is. These sort of details matter when (a) a new guide is being prepared and (b) trying to cultivate a ground-up approach. Kevin Thaw's comments above show that you don't need a stick, short or long. I'm just after the facts; no need to be touchy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well, apologies if I've offended you in some way by asking questions, and relatively benign ones at that! Sheesh. Anyway, thank you for providing further details, which is what I was after in the first place. The comment in the last guide stated something like: wire preplaced with stick. Not having the good fortune to be involved with the first ascent, and reading of other routes at the same crag employing fishing rods to clip bolts(!), I had no idea how long a stick is. These sort of details matter when (a) a new guide is being prepared and (b) trying to cultivate a ground-up approach. Kevin Thaw's comments above show that you don't need a stick, short or long. I'm just after the facts; no need to be touchy.
Jon Read 21 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yes. Care to explain yourself?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yes. Care to explain yourself?
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
mark20 18 Apr, 2014 Lead RP Desperate start, E6
Desperate start, E6
gaz parry 6 Sep, 1998 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr u 6 Sep, 1998 Lead Ground up
Ground up
ste_d 12 Aug, 1994 Lead O/S pre placed wire
pre placed wire
1 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E7
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Votes cast 8
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Route of Interest

The Reaper

Grade: E6 6c ***
(Egerton Quarry)