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Climbs 186
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 15m a.s.l
Faces S

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anyone for trad © Tommy Harris

Crag features

Winspit Quarry is a very pleasant and sheltered sport climbers playground with an excellent set of routes that span the grades. It is now established as a popular and well-bolted venue, and one of the best places to climb during the winter months in the south of England. The climbs pack in the moves and progress is mostly made on positive, square-cut holds and in-cuts. The quarry is divided into two halves enclosing a rocky cove, which is a popular picnic and sunbathing spot throughout the year, making this one of the better family-friendly cragging venues in the Swanage area.

Approach notes

Winspit Quarry is situated 1.5km south of Worth Matravers and is reached by a pleasant stroll down a picturesque valley. Park in the main car park, which is situated on the right as you enter the village. The approach path starts down a lane below the village pond.

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Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Swanage (2015)
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)

- BE AWARE - rock precariously hanging out above Mackerel, Stargazy, Knickerless Crutches and Premenstrual Princess. All these quarries have loose rock at the top but this is only just hanging in there! We regularly climb there so will update when it's fallen!
Dan Browne - 24/Sep/17
It looks like there has been a substantial collapse of the sea cliffs towards the route Tetris in the Far East Area. Take extra care if heading down that way.
Felix Ottey - 12/Jun/16
The cave on quarryman’s wall at Winspit has been turned into a toilet, complete with in-situ bog roll. THIS IS NOT ON. Climbers are the main users of this part of the quarry. There is a toilet in the car park at Worth Maltravers and plenty of countryside very close by where you could bury your shit if you really can't wait.
duncan - 28/Oct/13
We climbed here as a fallback venue as the sea was too rough to climb on the cliffs. I wouldn't describe it as "a superb venue" - the rock was of dubious quality and the routes were good but not fantastic.
Andrew Barker - 14/Sep/10
We climbed here as a fallback venue as the sea was too rough to climb on the cliffs. I'm not sure I'd describe it as a "superb venue" - the rock is of dubious quality and the routes we did were good but not fantastic.
Andrew Barker - 14/Sep/10
A superb venue, with a good variety of routes, Quarrymans Wall is a good spot to catch the sun early in the day then move round to the east facing side later in the day to catch the sun. Post Coital Snooze has a lovely crux move. There is also lots of rocks to jump off into the sea and cool off during the summer sun. Highly recommended. Fact: The original Doctor Who was filmed there.
mammal - 02/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

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