UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
A popular test-piece that lies at the upper end of the grade. A strenuous outing up a series of small overhangs that features three hard sections and a perplexing no-hands rest. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 30/Jul/1988.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic UK F7s, Winspit apprenticeship, Winspit Sport Climbs, The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour., South Side Sport, The post lockdown local list, Steep UK Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
joffcook 25 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock came off today. About 30kg just below 4th bolt, including crux undercut. The remaining rock including the big shield in which the 4th bolt is anchored now looks dangerously fractured. Having ticked this route many times since the early 90’s it is now in the most dangerous state that I have seen it, and I recommend anyone to THINK VERY CAREFULLY BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS ROUTE.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock came off today. About 30kg just below 4th bolt, including crux undercut. The remaining rock including the big shield in which the 4th bolt is anchored now looks dangerously fractured. Having ticked this route many times since the early 90’s it is now in the most dangerous state that I have seen it, and I recommend anyone to THINK VERY CAREFULLY BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS ROUTE.
Strontium Dog 25 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very good sustained roof climbing. Crux is slightly harder for the tall, but the rest is then a bit easier.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very good sustained roof climbing. Crux is slightly harder for the tall, but the rest is then a bit easier.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest

Under-Bare

Grade: 7b ***
(Cave Hole)
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