UKC

Restricted Access

The landowners have requested no more bolting or group use in the West Quarry.

User attention

The landowner has temporarily closed off access to the western part of the crag while they investigate reports of geological instability. They have stated that this closure is currently temporary and will be updating the BMC once the investigation has taken place. In the meantime please do not access or climb here. The coastgaurd has indicated that given the potentialy dangerous condition of the crag they would not send in rescuers should an emergency arise whilst thie closure is in place. from 18/04/2023

20m.

Rockfax Description
A relatively easy lower wall and flake lead to a hands-off rest. The next move is the crux and is very reach dependent. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 28/Nov/1993.

Ticklists

Winspit Sport Climbs , South Side Sport , Winspit Sport Climbs , Swanage Sport Routes

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User Date Notes
brian watson 7 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I'm just under 5-10, it was my absolute reach limit.
βeta?
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βeta: I'm just under 5-10, it was my absolute reach limit.
Ben Stokes 8 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I’m of the opinion that a climb should be graded for the easiest method and whether that requires a specific somatotype then so be it. Yes, it's unfortunate that the short find it harder in this instance, but them’s the breaks......
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I’m of the opinion that a climb should be graded for the easiest method and whether that requires a specific somatotype then so be it. Yes, it's unfortunate that the short find it harder in this instance, but them’s the breaks......
Ben Stokes 8 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I'm 5'11" on a tall day ;o) and this felt benchmark 7a+ for me. Like Richard said there is an intermediate crimp, which allows you to adjust on the undercut, and plenty of good footholds. I used a small foothold above the obvious large one and I wasn't at full stretch - no way an english 6c move.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm 5'11" on a tall day ;o) and this felt benchmark 7a+ for me. Like Richard said there is an intermediate crimp, which allows you to adjust on the undercut, and plenty of good footholds. I used a small foothold above the obvious large one and I wasn't at full stretch - no way an english 6c move.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gaudin Peace

Grade: 7b ***
(The Cuttings)

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