The landowners have requested no more bolting or group use in the West Quarry.
User attention
The landowner has temporarily closed off access to the western part of the crag while they investigate reports of geological instability. They have stated that this closure is currently temporary and will be updating the BMC once the investigation has taken place. In the meantime please do not access or climb here. The coastgaurd has indicated that given the potentialy dangerous condition of the crag they would not send in rescuers should an emergency arise whilst thie closure is in place. from 18/04/2023
Rockfax Description
A classy and sustained pitch to the left of the big cave. A bit of burly manoeuvring around the lower overhangs is followed by some more refined moves up the wall above. © Rockfax
FA. Mike Robertson 28/Nov/1993.
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Winspit apprenticeship , Winspit Sport Climbs , South Side Sport , The post lockdown local list , Winspit Sport Climbs , Swanage Sport Routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Jakebirdy | 6 Apr |
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βeta: Good route, much harder if you don’t use the undercut for the starting boulder problem - Maybe the hardest individual moves on a 7a+. Gives way to rewarding climbing to the anchor, excellent route. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Good route, much harder if you don’t use the undercut for the starting boulder problem - Maybe the hardest individual moves on a 7a+. Gives way to rewarding climbing to the anchor, excellent route. |
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Rob Kennard | 17 Dec, 2006 |
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βeta: Did you remove the large downward pointing flake Jimbo? Did you think 6b+ is about right? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Did you remove the large downward pointing flake Jimbo? Did you think 6b+ is about right? |
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Ben Stokes | 1 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: A class route with a powerful start. Pity the bolting isn't as classy. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A class route with a powerful start. Pity the bolting isn't as classy. |
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Climber_Bill | 14 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: The route right of DG by Rich White is called Frightened of the Sun, 7b+. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The route right of DG by Rich White is called Frightened of the Sun, 7b+. |
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Rob Kennard | 22 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: There are 2 new routes hereabouts.Right of DG is Rich White's new 7b+( name?), right again is Disbelief Suspended, 7b+, right again is Matt King's project. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There are 2 new routes hereabouts.Right of DG is Rich White's new 7b+( name?), right again is Disbelief Suspended, 7b+, right again is Matt King's project. |
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)