The landowners have requested no more bolting or group use in the West Quarry.
User attention
The landowner has temporarily closed off access to the western part of the crag while they investigate reports of geological instability. They have stated that this closure is currently temporary and will be updating the BMC once the investigation has taken place. In the meantime please do not access or climb here. The coastgaurd has indicated that given the potentialy dangerous condition of the crag they would not send in rescuers should an emergency arise whilst thie closure is in place. from 18/04/2023
Rockfax Description
A popular outing that shed a hold on its crux, but can still be climbed at grade 5 if a move right is made at the third bolt (6a+ if taken direct). Start up the arete, then make a tricky move into the corner which is followed to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Carol Robertson. The first new route from one of the local female climbers. 05/Dec/1993.
Winspit Sport Climbs , Sophie's all the 5s in Winspit Challenge , Winspit Sport Climbs , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Swanage Sport Routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
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George Sandstone | 9 Jun, 2024 |
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βeta: A hold at the bottom of the mini chimney (where the line in the Rockfax guide trends right) is loose. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A hold at the bottom of the mini chimney (where the line in the Rockfax guide trends right) is loose. |
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Andre Clarke | 29 Dec, 2020 |
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βeta: Direct start hard for 6a+ I thought but differculties short lived. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Direct start hard for 6a+ I thought but differculties short lived. |
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steve taylor | 8 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Sorry - step RIGHT at the third bolt. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sorry - step RIGHT at the third bolt. |
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steve taylor | 8 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Since the loss of the hold, it remains F5 if you step left at the third bolt, move up and step back right. Going direct is now about F6a+. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Since the loss of the hold, it remains F5 if you step left at the third bolt, move up and step back right. Going direct is now about F6a+. |
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jl | 6 Nov, 2001 |
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βeta: I agree, an enjoyable climb but one of the LO bolts looks a little suspect. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I agree, an enjoyable climb but one of the LO bolts looks a little suspect. |
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Grade: 5a ***
(Blacknor North)