UKC

Restricted Access

The landowners have requested no more bolting or group use in the West Quarry.

User attention

The landowner has temporarily closed off access to the western part of the crag while they investigate reports of geological instability. They have stated that this closure is currently temporary and will be updating the BMC once the investigation has taken place. In the meantime please do not access or climb here. The coastgaurd has indicated that given the potentialy dangerous condition of the crag they would not send in rescuers should an emergency arise whilst thie closure is in place. from 18/04/2023

20m.

Rockfax Description
A popular outing that shed a hold on its crux, but can still be climbed at grade 5 if a move right is made at the third bolt (6a+ if taken direct). Start up the arete, then make a tricky move into the corner which is followed to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Carol Robertson. The first new route from one of the local female climbers. 05/Dec/1993.

Ticklists

Winspit Sport Climbs , Sophie's all the 5s in Winspit Challenge , Winspit Sport Climbs , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Swanage Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
George Sandstone 9 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: A hold at the bottom of the mini chimney (where the line in the Rockfax guide trends right) is loose.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A hold at the bottom of the mini chimney (where the line in the Rockfax guide trends right) is loose.
Andre Clarke 29 Dec, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Direct start hard for 6a+ I thought but differculties short lived.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Direct start hard for 6a+ I thought but differculties short lived.
steve taylor 8 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry - step RIGHT at the third bolt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sorry - step RIGHT at the third bolt.
steve taylor 8 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Since the loss of the hold, it remains F5 if you step left at the third bolt, move up and step back right. Going direct is now about F6a+.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Since the loss of the hold, it remains F5 if you step left at the third bolt, move up and step back right. Going direct is now about F6a+.
jl 6 Nov, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: I agree, an enjoyable climb but one of the LO bolts looks a little suspect.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree, an enjoyable climb but one of the LO bolts looks a little suspect.

Logged Ascents

1316 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Winspit

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 104
Votes cast 86
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Slings Shot

Grade: 5a ***
(Blacknor North)

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