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Climbs 436
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 82m a.s.l
Faces W

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Liquid Leather/The Perfumed Garden © Mark Davis

Crag features

The gem of the Wye Valley. Superb limestone, outrageous overhangs, technical faces, cracks, flakes, nice views, you name it. Mainly multi-pitch routes to about 90 metres. Note that the classic GO Wall outing "King Kong" suffered a rock fall between the publication of the old guide book in 1997 and the new one in 2007, losing its then infamous awkward bulge. The overhanging starting block on pitch one has now also collapsed, early 2017. It is still climbable at much the same grade.

PLEASE NOTE:

- There is a new access gate to Woodcroft quarry, please follow the BMC access link below for details on how to access.

- Nesting restriction are often in place, please read access notes below

- Do not attempt to fly drones in this area, this is area of special scienfic interest and nesting birds must not be disturbed.

Approach notes

Take the A48 Gloucester Road through Chepstow over the new Wye Bridge. Turn left onto the B4228, through Tutshill, turning right at the mini roundabouts. After about a mile you'll reach the pub "The Rising Sun" in Woodcroft. On weekdays it might be possible to park near the pub itself, but do show due consideration.

Woodcroft Quarry has seen a renaissance in the past few years with the development of a number of new mid-grade sport routes. At the same time, unfortunately the Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry area have become a focal point for anti-social behaviour and access issues for climbers have arisen. Landowners and managers have been keen to limit access through the historical access point above the quarry to reduce this anti-social behaviour, which could have resulted in climbers having to take a much longer approach. The fast approach and convenience of both the trad and sport routes in this part of the crag are one of its greatest assets, (especially as the days draw longer and thoughts turn to evening cragging,) so we were keen to avoid this if possible.

1. The fence at the top of the quarry has been repaired and a gate installed with a lock (further along the path from the original access). It is very important that climbers ensure the gate latched behind them any time they enter or exit – failure to do so could result in future access issues for this useful and convenient entrance point, so please be especially vigilant when using the gate. Note: The gate is not the padlocked one by the main entrance - it's a few metres away closer to the quarry edge, and just off the main Offa's Dyke path.

The other entrance include:

2. Walk in on from the Woodcroft end, take Off-Dyke's path (from the entrance near Old School Lane) and follow the lower path along the river, initially you will see the Forbidden wall on your right, keep going as the path heads away from the cliff, but when it gets closer again you will see the far end of the Fly Wall near Joe's and The Fly.

For the Fly wall and Woodcroft Quarry head towards the rock and follow the poor Flywall path all the way along until it reaches the end of the Fly Wall where you can turn right and walk up to Woodcroft Quarry (heading down here leads past the Screed Slope to the bottom of the Go-Wall).

For the main cliff it maybe easier to stay on the footpath, crossing the Screed Slope at the bottom (easy) to reach the bottom of the Go-Wall.

3. The Easy Way Down, approx 500 metres past The Rising Sun (access to the pull-off now denied by bollards). From the viewing platform, start a a steep and initially exposed and unprotected descent which is NOT suitable for a novice and difficult in trainers/back-packs.

4. It is also possible to access the Cliff from the footpath on Lancaut road, just 50m. to the left after the parking area, signposted Lancaut Nature Reserve, which leads down and past the ruined St. James chapel to a riverside comfortable footpath. The footpath runs the whole length of Wintour's Leap crag and eventually (approx. 20min. from the car) climbs very steeply into Woodcroft Quarry at the other end.

The least disruptive parking is to be had on the grassy patches by the side of the Lancaut road, just N of the village.

Access Advice

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall from Gendarmerie rightwards (including Gendarmerie, Dragonfly, Big Fly Direct and Jos'e and the Fly) to protect nesting peregrine falcons.
Cleaned Microserf 6c+ on the South Bay yesterday which took a considerable amount of time. Intend doing same on Valley Forge (will replace missing tat too) and Therapy. Lots of other greta routes are in need of the same treatment, would appreciate any help in the coming months.
mike hope - 16/Sep/16
Deceiver buttress has fallen down
Esoterical - 02/Jul/16
Last week the GO Wall was out of bounds due to nesting restrictions, but this may change.
springfall2008 - 09/May/15
The new rockfall mentioned below is the (collapsed) rib from the lower half of the first pitch of The Perfumed Garden, which probably cannot be climbed anymore at HVS 5a. For those wanting to do The Burning Giraffe, Kama Sutra is a somewhat reasonable replacement.
pheotleyr - 26/Jul/13
Lots of "new" rockfall has appeared at the base of Kama Sutra (on the way to the pedestal). Not sure if this is old news haven't been that way in years, but it looks recent. Be wary on and around Kama Sutra.
gb05 - 27/Jun/13
The easy way down has become trickier with the debris of 2 televisions that have been discarded over the cliff. Be careful of broken glass on the ledges.
BridgetteB - 27/Oct/12
That should read North Buttress not North Wall sorry.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12
The land owner of North Wall no longer allows climbers to exit via his garden, the upper pitches of routes that require this are now out of bounds. BMC is looking to erect an abseil station here.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12
There's a barn owl nesting in a small cave between the Perfumed Garden and Kama Sutra on GO wall at Wintours Leap. The cave is on the obvious ledge where the first pitches finish. Would recommend avoiding this area until nesting finished. There is also a Herring Gull nesting directly at the top of Kama Sutra that will likely get very angry if anyone gets too close.
Big Lee - 14/May/12
Info on new routes in Woodcroft Quarry can be found at http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/Woodcroft-SC-May-11.pdf . Compiled by Gordon Jenkin.
James Rushforth - 03/Sep/11
A video of the crux of Zelda is at: http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2007/12/wintours-leap.html
TobyA - 01/Jan/08
A substantial rock has fallen from the North Wall sometime in the last few weeks. A big orange patch of fresh rock is clearly visible from the approach path past the ruined building. And the very large rock at the foot of the cliff is a clue as well. Not sure which route it affects...maybe Left Hand Route.
mdwoolley - 22/Oct/07
I recently climbed at wintours and went up a route by mistake that looked like it had never been climbed before (right of angels girdle) pulled a massive chunk of rock (tv size) off nearly killing my belayer! be careful with loose rock
Dr Caterpillar - 16/Jul/07
enjoyed first trip there last weekend. a warning, when finishing up Bacchanalian, the guidebook states that the rock doesn't look up to much but is perfectly adequate. actually it's not. i'm pleased my leader didn't fall, as I pulled off a handhold seconding to fall out of the blue and gear would have been uncertain around that area too, just below the exposed slab section before topout.
Phil Lyon - 08/Dec/06
First time to Wintour's. Found the Wye valley guide book really difficult to locate some of the classic climbs (Central Rib etc). Found three top rope routes on Fly Wall more than satisfying (despite the mud and huge amounts of foliage). A great day out, fantistic view over the river, and some friendly advice giving locals.
Jo Finch - 12/Nov/06
The 'Easy way down' is pretty lethal after rain. Damp polished limestone and wet leaves make for a descent that is harder than some of the routes! The climbs themselves dry faster than the descent though.
Nick Smith - UKC - 24/Oct/06
Climbed here for many years, live locally. Personally speaking i think a lot of the lower grade routes on Fly Wall are undergraded but only because of being well polished. The location itself is stunning and never ceases to impress, no road noise to speak of and a couple of good pubs nearby. The great ledge on the North Wall is the spot to be in, late in the day, watch the sun set, listen to the wildlife, birds coming into roost. What a top bivvy spot, plenty have too judging by the old fire embers lying around. Lucky people getting to live in the house directly above, who very kindly let climbers exit on to their land, long may it continue. Warren.
wozzer - 19/May/05
I climb at wintours all the time, it's my local. I recently climbed Notung E1 5a/b the gear is very minimal. This was my first E1 and i have since done E2 5b in Hunts mans Leap. I am 15 and work at the warehouse climbing centre.
Steven Pickett - 16/May/05
recently climbed Guytha, good route but is the top really only h.v.s. Feels very run out to me. Probably just getting old and fat....... And is Freedom only 4c? My favourite routes on the crag are la folie and kangaroo wall. Has anyone done The jackel as I would like to fulfill an ambition of 10 years!!
robbie warke - 24/Aug/04
Re KK 1st Pitch. Getting in the grove is probable no harder than it was and quite safe with a good friend under the roof, Except you arrive at the polished jams already knackered rather than having a rest on the erestwhile blocks. So by the time you reach the moves right under the next roof....!
Del Owen - 28/Jul/04
Went climbing with a mate at wintours laep great climbing great day! ROCK ON!!
guy - 15/Jan/04
A quick note on access out of the North Wall... had a great climb there on Sunday (Nibelhiem) and a pleasant chat with the gentleman who owns the house at the top of the crag. He commented that he's recently put signs up at the top-out point directing climbers to walk around the edge of his garden and asked us if they were noticeable - they are and for any one visiting Wintours who's not familiar with the layout, please follow the signs round the edge of the garden - he's a great guy for letting people to exit this way and the least we can do is minimise the impact by sticking to the edge of his lawn
JMB - 20/Oct/03
Please note that the first two pegs on Big Fly Direct have disappeared, together with a substancial amount of rock around them. The route is now less enjoyable and far more serious but probably still only warrants 5a. Whether it deserves E2 or not is questionable (In my opinion probably not. E2 5a is an odd grade). Judging from the fact that there were several pieces of gear left in the route and a couple of large blocks beneath it,I would hazard a guess that someone may have had an epic.
Al Randall - 18/Aug/03
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