Altitude 82m a.s.l
Fire Fly © henry castle
The gem of the Wye Valley. Superb limestone, outrageous overhangs, technical faces, cracks, flakes, nice views, you name it. Mainly multi-pitch routes to about 90 metres. Note that the classic GO Wall outing "King Kong" suffered a rock fall between the publication of the old guide book in 1997 and the new one in 2007, losing its then infamous awkward bulge. The overhanging starting block on pitch one has now also collapsed, early 2017. It is still climbable at much the same grade.
- There is a new access gate to Woodcroft quarry, please follow the BMC access link below for details on how to access.
- Nesting restriction are often in place, please read access notes below
- Do not attempt to fly drones in this area, this is area of special scienfic interest and nesting birds must not be disturbed.
Take the A48 Gloucester Road through Chepstow over the new Wye Bridge. Turn left onto the B4228, through Tutshill, turning right at the mini roundabouts. After about a mile you'll reach the pub "The Rising Sun" in Woodcroft. On weekdays it might be possible to park near the pub itself, but do show due consideration.
Woodcroft Quarry has seen a renaissance in the past few years with the development of a number of new mid-grade sport routes. At the same time, unfortunately the Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry area have become a focal point for anti-social behaviour and access issues for climbers have arisen. Landowners and managers have been keen to limit access through the historical access point above the quarry to reduce this anti-social behaviour, which could have resulted in climbers having to take a much longer approach. The fast approach and convenience of both the trad and sport routes in this part of the crag are one of its greatest assets, (especially as the days draw longer and thoughts turn to evening cragging,) so we were keen to avoid this if possible.
1. The fence at the top of the quarry has been repaired and a gate installed with a lock (further along the path from the original access). It is very important that climbers ensure the gate latched behind them any time they enter or exit – failure to do so could result in future access issues for this useful and convenient entrance point, so please be especially vigilant when using the gate. Note: The gate is not the padlocked one by the main entrance - it's a few metres away closer to the quarry edge, and just off the main Offa's Dyke path.
The other entrance include:
2. Walk in on from the Woodcroft end, take Off-Dyke's path (from the entrance near Old School Lane) and follow the lower path along the river, initially you will see the Forbidden wall on your right, keep going as the path heads away from the cliff, but when it gets closer again you will see the far end of the Fly Wall near Joe's and The Fly.
For the Fly wall and Woodcroft Quarry head towards the rock and follow the poor Flywall path all the way along until it reaches the end of the Fly Wall where you can turn right and walk up to Woodcroft Quarry (heading down here leads past the Screed Slope to the bottom of the Go-Wall).
For the main cliff it maybe easier to stay on the footpath, crossing the Screed Slope at the bottom (easy) to reach the bottom of the Go-Wall.
3. The Easy Way Down, approx 500 metres past The Rising Sun (access to the pull-off now denied by bollards). From the viewing platform, start a a steep and initially exposed and unprotected descent which is NOT suitable for a novice and difficult in trainers/back-packs.
4. It is also possible to access the Cliff from the footpath on Lancaut road, just 50m. to the left after the parking area, signposted Lancaut Nature Reserve, which leads down and past the ruined St. James chapel to a riverside comfortable footpath. The footpath runs the whole length of Wintour's Leap crag and eventually (approx. 20min. from the car) climbs very steeply into Woodcroft Quarry at the other end.
The least disruptive parking is to be had on the grassy patches by the side of the Lancaut road, just N of the village.
Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting BirdsThe restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall from Gendarmerie rightwards (including Gendarmerie, Dragonfly, Big Fly Direct and Jos'e and the Fly) to protect nesting peregrine falcons.
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