UKC

40m.

Rockfax Description
A really pleasing pitch. Clean, protectable and with some great climbing. Gain the ledge at 4m and then take a slight corner on the left to access a ledge at the base of the main corner. Intricate bridging up the corner ends at a small ledge on the left. Move up and then work rightwards up the wall past ledges to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The alluring corner crack provides sustained and very well protected bridging moves on arguably the best route at the LH crag. Approach the ledge beneath the groove proper from the left, and exit towards the right following the in-situ thread marking the crux and the continuation crack above. There is a knotted rope in place at the top which provides the anchor to ab from but, as always, it is worth checking what the other end of the rope is attached to before trusting it with your life.

Ticklists

Ultimate E2 ticklist, Extreme 2018, Wye Valley 10 x 10, Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK, 31 By 31

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 15 Aug Show βeta
βeta: abseil tat was a bit rubbish but if you continue up the fixed rope (part of the abseil station fixed to unknown bush/tree) and there is another abseil station in better condition to the right (50m ropes reach ground with plenty spare). To replace 15/20m of rope probably needed to fix to a suitably large tree higher up the bank.
βeta?
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βeta: abseil tat was a bit rubbish but if you continue up the fixed rope (part of the abseil station fixed to unknown bush/tree) and there is another abseil station in better condition to the right (50m ropes reach ground with plenty spare). To replace 15/20m of rope probably needed to fix to a suitably large tree higher up the bank.
BStar 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Abseil tat has seen far better days.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Abseil tat has seen far better days.
jsmcfarland 13 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: White static rope forming part of anchor seems to be in good condition and around a large tree a (long) way up the slope. Black rope around a good tree but getting in bad condition and covered in slime. They can be backed up with a sling around a good sapling about 4 or 5 metres up the slope behind the belay
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: White static rope forming part of anchor seems to be in good condition and around a large tree a (long) way up the slope. Black rope around a good tree but getting in bad condition and covered in slime. They can be backed up with a sling around a good sapling about 4 or 5 metres up the slope behind the belay
chris687 8 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Top rope isn't great, I used it as 1 point of an anchor built on the ledge about 5m lower down. Just putting tat on the bushes next to it is not to be recommended, nor is using the loose blocks next to them.
βeta?
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βeta: Top rope isn't great, I used it as 1 point of an anchor built on the ledge about 5m lower down. Just putting tat on the bushes next to it is not to be recommended, nor is using the loose blocks next to them.
Oscar Popels 9 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I recommend the next party take up some tat, it's a bit dodgy at the moment.
Show beta
βeta: I recommend the next party take up some tat, it's a bit dodgy at the moment.
cem 7 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Beware of loose rock just below the top and when topping out.
Show beta
βeta: Beware of loose rock just below the top and when topping out.

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 66
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 65
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Zulu

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Wynd Cliff)
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