UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

8m. The prominent crack/groove left of Banana Crack, gained from the left. Climb a short wall (initial bolt shared with the routes to the left) to a ledge (bolt); then step right into the groove and climb it, past 2 bolts, until it is possible to clip the double bolt lower off on the right.

Mark S Davies, Gordon A Jenkin 05/Apr/2016.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6As with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
WyeValleyTashMan 8 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: In the words of the master Jedi Qui-Gon Jinn “Concentrate on the moment. Feel, don’t think. Use your instincts.” That’s what it takes to truly understand the order of yoni.
βeta?
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βeta: In the words of the master Jedi Qui-Gon Jinn “Concentrate on the moment. Feel, don’t think. Use your instincts.” That’s what it takes to truly understand the order of yoni.
Graham Carter 21 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Hand jam the top crack!
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βeta: Hand jam the top crack!
PaulJepson 12 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Not a bad idea to unclip the bolt above the ledge once you have clipped the first independent bolt of the route.
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βeta: Not a bad idea to unclip the bolt above the ledge once you have clipped the first independent bolt of the route.
alasdaircavaye 24 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose bolt nut at top. Needs a spanner to tighten up.
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βeta: Loose bolt nut at top. Needs a spanner to tighten up.
rosamayjojo 18 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. got it the second time at Wyndcliff.
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βeta: Great route. got it the second time at Wyndcliff.
rosamayjojo 2 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Really nice route - first try at leading anything above a 5+ and although I didn't manage to do it in one, it doesn't feel impossible. Will definitely be back to try it soon after a big old rest.
βeta?
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βeta: Really nice route - first try at leading anything above a 5+ and although I didn't manage to do it in one, it doesn't feel impossible. Will definitely be back to try it soon after a big old rest.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
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