UKC

256m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A sustained outing leading to the classic scramble of Terminal Arete. Start just left of the main central section of Heather Shelf.
1) 4a, 40m. Scramble up to Heather Shelf and a rock spike at its left-hand end. Follow the groove, forking right at its junction, to reach a ledge. A quartz band on the right leads to a stance below a grass ledge.
2) 4a, 23m. A short groove up and left bypasses an overhang. Climb to the ledge above and belay below a prominent V-groove.
3) 4a, 25m. Step out leftwards and climb the slab until moves back right lead to another ledge above the last belay.
4) 30m. Traverse rightwards to below an arete that is above a quartzy wall. Climb up this to a stance level with the grassy ledge on the left.
5) 30m. Follow the arete, flecked with ribbons of quartz, to a spike belay.
6) 35m. Easy climbing leads up and rightwards to a stance above the left-hand tip of the Great Terrace, below the...
Terminal Arete
7), 8), 9) and 10) 120m. From here, you continue up the arete in 4 long pitches. The climbing is Diff or less, but it is recommended that you remain roped up unless you feel confident and experienced enough to move together. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List

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User Date Notes
mmd 29 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 1 has gear 5 good pieces + 3 others. No idea as to why others have said its lacking. Yes the odd part on P1 will feel a little run out. Also If HS is your limit then not the route for you. Remember, this is a mnt route on Lliwedd not some road side crag. Its a great route. We started around 9.30am and the sun stayed with us all the way. Easy route finding and all sound belays up to T Arete which we soled Go when crag is dry due to slopping nature of crag , it will feel much harder in damp conditions- 50 m ropes will be fine. Black arete is more run out in places but much easy angle. Makes sense to gear up on obvious ledge ( as for first pitch avalanche etc ) below start of pitch one and solo up to spike belay at base of P1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 1 has gear 5 good pieces + 3 others. No idea as to why others have said its lacking. Yes the odd part on P1 will feel a little run out. Also If HS is your limit then not the route for you. Remember, this is a mnt route on Lliwedd not some road side crag. Its a great route. We started around 9.30am and the sun stayed with us all the way. Easy route finding and all sound belays up to T Arete which we soled Go when crag is dry due to slopping nature of crag , it will feel much harder in damp conditions- 50 m ropes will be fine. Black arete is more run out in places but much easy angle. Makes sense to gear up on obvious ledge ( as for first pitch avalanche etc ) below start of pitch one and solo up to spike belay at base of P1
xphoenix0 27 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great Route ! Take Slings as there are plenty of spikes, very little gear on the first pitch. One for the Summer, avoid when wet and loose blocks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great Route ! Take Slings as there are plenty of spikes, very little gear on the first pitch. One for the Summer, avoid when wet and loose blocks.

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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Dinas Cromlech)

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