Bilberry Terrace is one of the most impressive and committing scrambles in Snowdonia. Is long with complex route finding but this allows you to weave a beautifully elegant line that delivers you straight to the summit of Lliwedd.
A high north-facing alpine-scale cliff, it will stay damp for several days after rain. The route is rarely in perfect condition and the difficult steps can feel serious if wet, hence a roped ascent is highly recommended. An early start will allow you to get the most of any morning sun that catches the face. The rock is generally solid, although care is needed with the rope to avoid knocking off loose blocks.
From Pen y Pass carpark, head up The Miner's Track to Llyn Llydaw and turn left at the pump house, just before the causeway, towards Lliwedd. The path crosses some small bridges and starts to rise up towards Lliwedd. After about 200m the path goes over a small knoll and flattens off for about 50m before rising again. From here, contour right towards the main cliff, heading slightly up, to a terrace that leads to below the east peak. You are aiming for a point below a large gully that splits the cliffs of the east and west peaks of Lliwedd.
Only two pitches are marked on the diagram since this route is usually climbed as a scramble.
1) From the gully, head up and right to a large square block with a quartz top. Follow the base of the crag up and right to where another terrace leads back right to a 25m step. Head up this to the start of the route.
2) Go up the step to an unnerving move right onto the terrace itself. Belay immediately after the move.
3) Wander along the terrace - there are several good spike belays on the way. The terrace eventually peters out at a steep corner. Climb up to the 5m steep corner (large cam and wires protect). On the ledge, move left and up to another ledge and spike belay.
4) Traverse the exposed slab right to regain a terrace and continue along it past an awkward wide slot to a gully on the left with a prominent block arch bridging it. Spike belay on right.
5) Ignore the gully and continue along the terrace aiming for a notch on a ridge. This is 'Pinnacle Corner'. Go through the notch and up easy grass/heather to a small vegetated traverse.
6) Go 15m right along this below a prominent canon spike. Then continue on a short way before heading back up and left to belay off the canon spike.
7) A vague line of weakness leads up diagonally left to a rock wall. Climb this on the left and regain the first ridge about 30m above Pinnacle Corner.
8) The second ridge can be seen about 30m to the left. Head left along a ledge and down slightly before heading back up to the ridge at another notch.
9) The third ridge can now be seen 30m left again. Take a rising line of weakness to a spike just right of the ridge.
10) Now move right into a depression on the right of the ridge, up to a steep rocky corner, often a little damp. Climb this and belay on a spike above.
11) It is possible to zig-zag up the vague gully to the right of the ridge from here to the top and is the easiest option. However it is also possible to make a few more pitches up the frost-shattered ridge - care needed with the rock. If you take the ridge you arrive straight onto the summit.
Descent - Reverse the Lliwedd Traverse to Snowdon or follow that route over Snowdon. If you are wanting some more scrambling then you can either ascend the East RIdge of Snowdon to the summit or, much better in terms of quality scrambling, descend Cribau. © Rockfax
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