Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Robdog pulling round from the Crux on Seal © deejmonkey
A recently developed venue to be featured in a new Mid Wales guidebook.
An excellent location with a glorious outlook over cardigan bay. In fine weather expect to see plenty of dolphins and seals.
The jewel in the crown is undoubtedly Beaj Iskis HVS 5a***. Other great climbs include: The Day the Balloon Went Up S 4a**, Fate Loves the Fearless HVS 5a**, Round and Round Went the Great Big Wheel E2 5b***, Gorilla Warfare E3 5c**, Little Miss Sunshine E4 5c**, among many others.
Access to the island is via the path on the headland descending to sea level. This is shown in the interim guide. Care should be taken on this path if at all wet, as it will be tremendously slippery. There is also a stake on the end of the headland overlooking the gap between this and the island for an abseil.
*** The island is owned by the National Trust, and is NOT open access land. The island is also an SSSI.
East face of Lochtyn
|A great place and easy to find, we went down to find the sport climbs and spent the better part of an hour looking for the bolts and couldn't find anything. I think they may be mis-labelled. The trad looks great though.
matthann - 04/Aug/20
|Stunning crag. Great setting, adventurous feel and brilliant rock. When climbing there we saw bottlenose dolphins and a killer whale!
RyanOsborne - 25/May/15
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Sy Finch