Diary: 14th May for 'Edshakey'
| Outdoor climbing > Logbook |
| (Old Man of) Hoy - East Face Route (Original Route) E1 5b *** Properly epic. Firat ferry to Hoy in the morning, taxi to Rackwick, then walked over. First pitch was very easy, no sure where 4b comes from, and then into the meat of it. Fab lead by George to get through the crux, didn't know holds could be so sandy! Found it nails when following but just about scraped through - carrying a bag was no fun though, need it hanging through chimney but on back for section after. Things definitely eased after, decent third pitch, quite enjoyable fourth, and then mega top pitch, seeing the sun through the crack just like everyone says! Had a beer up top, wrote in the logbook, and then commenced a three hour near epic on the descent. Ab to belay in middle of P3, ab to top of P2, tried to ab to ground but rope got whipped round the corner by a terrific wind and ended up doing some sketchy self tensioning on the stuck rope to make it to top of p1 belay. Then a long time untangling ropes, nearly getting them stuck before they eventually pulled and we could commence the final uneventful abseil to the ground. 12.5 hours from the bothy to returning there. Incredible outing overall, highly recommended to anyone looking to find some magic in their climbing. with George Fidczuk |