Diary: 9th August for 'Stanners'
| Outdoor climbing > Logbook |
| California - Central Sadness E5 6a *** A magnificent slate experience where the quality of the 2nd pitch helps you forget the psychological trauma of the 1st. That top pitch really is incredible. I led pitch 1. P1 is very serious bold climbing, yet arguably somewhat steady after the tricky first crack (which is protected). Steady..but by no means easy and I was truly really rather quite concerned as I did the last few moves to the belay bolts. A lot of psychological marginal gear equalising brass and whispering a prayer of safe passage to the slate gods. It is none the less an incredible experience as a whole. P1 very much the antithesis of P2. Best to look at pitch 1 as an E4 6a crack into a E5 5c mind game. P2 a phenomenal E4 6a perhaps. Blown away by this. What a great day. We dropped the ropes the full 57 metres down the crag so Nicky could second up too on top rope. Sat in the sun at the top in good company feeling rather joyful, complete and alive. with Oscar Popels, Nicky B |