Rockfax Description
Possibly the best route of its grade in the quarries. Start below a thin crack to the right of a tapering groove. Often described as one pitch for the heroes and another for the married man.
1) 6a, 25m. The bold first pitch starts with a tricky move to gain the crack; follow it more easily to a ledge below a recess. Move up the recess on slopers to a spike (sling), and then commit to gaining the wall above. Head up this, moving right near the top, to a two-bolt belay.
2) 6a, 32m. The better protected second pitch moves up and right from the belay towards a crack. Once gained, follow it in an amazing position, past very small cams, until a difficult move gains a larger crack that leads up and right to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, a State of Slate, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, slate E5's, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Wales Ticklist

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UserDateNotes
Misha 6 Jul Show βeta
βeta: There are two belay bolts, hard to spot - one just above the roof of the slate hut and ones just below!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are two belay bolts, hard to spot - one just above the roof of the slate hut and ones just below!
Dan Hale 17 May Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 1
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Misha 6 Jul AltLd O/S Really good! Thanks to Steve for suggesting this and leading the bold P1. P1 was easy to second but would be worrying to lead in places. The hardest move is possibly getting off the ground but there is a fair bit of 5c and some 6a above so-so gear on the second half of the pitch. Typical slate, techy moves between rests. I led P2, bold but not too hard to start, crux on face holds to get to the crack proper and then interest is maintained to get up the crack but there are some rests. Nice hand jamming crack to finish. Didn’t feel that hard on this pitch, soft E4 6a. Soft E5 overall and the weight of the grade is definitely in P1. Evening hit topping out into the setting sun after a day of rain. Lots of micros required, cams small blue to green, gold and big blue (2x purple and gold useful for P2).
Really good! Thanks to Steve for suggesting this and leading the bold P1. P1 was easy to second but would be worrying to lead in places. The hardest move is possibly getting off the ground but there is a fair bit of 5c and some 6a above so-so gear on the second half of the pitch. Typical slate, techy moves between rests. I led P2, bold but not too hard to start, crux on face holds to get to the crack proper and then interest is maintained to get up the crack but there are some rests. Nice hand jamming crack to finish. Didn’t feel that hard on this pitch, soft E4 6a. Soft E5 overall and the weight of the grade is definitely in P1. Evening hit topping out into the setting sun after a day of rain. Lots of micros required, cams small blue to green, gold and big blue (2x purple and gold useful for P2).
Felix la shat 17 May AltLd O/S P2
P2
Dan Hale 17 May Lead O/S Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Hidden 23 Mar AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 27 Sep, 2018 AltLd Excellent. If there was one really bomber runner in the second half of the first pitch, this would be steady at E4.
Excellent. If there was one really bomber runner in the second half of the first pitch, this would be steady at E4.
Hidden 27 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
markalmack 2 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead p1. Felt chill
Lead p1. Felt chill
Duncan Campbell 2 Jun, 2018 AltLd RP Almadad led p1... then I had a rematch with p2 that I fell off years ago. Didn’t remember anything but Went ok this time though the crack is fairly slick and tricky. Probs more like E4 for this pitch but still Good to knock out a couple of tricky pitches when feeling in a bit of a psyche lull and a bit hungover.
Almadad led p1... then I had a rematch with p2 that I fell off years ago. Didn’t remember anything but Went ok this time though the crack is fairly slick and tricky. Probs more like E4 for this pitch but still Good to knock out a couple of tricky pitches when feeling in a bit of a psyche lull and a bit hungover.
Hidden 5 Apr, 2018 AltLd
peter.herd 5 Apr, 2018 AltLd after work hit. well good
with D Rudkin
after work hit. well good
with D Rudkin
wolf.leeb 10 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Led both, top pitch is sublime.
with hosey
Led both, top pitch is sublime.
with hosey
Ellis Bird ?Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
pablosordo 21 May, 2017 2nd
jonleighton 21 May, 2017 Lead O/S Awesome. P1 definitely the crux for me, the crack pitch felt more like an immaculate E4.
Awesome. P1 definitely the crux for me, the crack pitch felt more like an immaculate E4.
JendeHoxar 4 Feb, 2017 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 4 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S Felt like a first winter ascent! Least the landscape was in very "wintery" conditions. Lead both pitches in glacial temperatures and at glacial speed. No bolts on this one too and ohh that crack pitch!
Felt like a first winter ascent! Least the landscape was in very "wintery" conditions. Lead both pitches in glacial temperatures and at glacial speed. No bolts on this one too and ohh that crack pitch!
spidermonkey ??, 2017 - Amazing route. Slimey at the base, wait for the sun to hit. Cobwebs on the route throughout so I guess it had been a while. Had to aid the slanting crack. How anyone can lead that bit I'll never know. Good effort to 'em!
Amazing route. Slimey at the base, wait for the sun to hit. Cobwebs on the route throughout so I guess it had been a while. Had to aid the slanting crack. How anyone can lead that bit I'll never know. Good effort to 'em!
Eduardo Martinez 9 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead first pitch. The run out section was technically quit easy. Second pitch is immaculate crack climbing at it's best. Need to come back to lead the second pitch.
Lead first pitch. The run out section was technically quit easy. Second pitch is immaculate crack climbing at it's best. Need to come back to lead the second pitch.
Rich Kirby 9 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Led top pitch. Superb
Led top pitch. Superb
richiebongo 27 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Pablo lead the 1st pitch which was bold and I lead the 2nd in the fading light. No lower off at the top and we didn't read the how to walk off notes in the guide! Amazing route.
with paulo
Pablo lead the 1st pitch which was bold and I lead the 2nd in the fading light. No lower off at the top and we didn't read the how to walk off notes in the guide! Amazing route.
with paulo
pablosordo 27 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S lead 1st pitch, epic
lead 1st pitch, epic
Hidden ??, 2016 -
jacob shieldhouse hadley 21 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S led 2nd pitch, well protected, felt like easy 6b not knowing how to climb cracks!
with callum muskett
led 2nd pitch, well protected, felt like easy 6b not knowing how to climb cracks!
with callum muskett
pete johnson 1 May, 2015 Lead O/S
pauldrew 1 May, 2015 2nd
MischaHY 30 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S Scary but steady. Will be back soon for the lead.
with Joe Heeley, James Mcaffie
Scary but steady. Will be back soon for the lead.
with Joe Heeley, James Mcaffie
davebrox 16 Apr, 2015 2nd
breed 14 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S Class route. I did p1. Steady climbing prob no 6a moves but the gear is pretty poor all the way after the first crack. Great p2
Class route. I did p1. Steady climbing prob no 6a moves but the gear is pretty poor all the way after the first crack. Great p2
HAJ Francis ?Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
waynekinrade ?Oct, 2014 Lead O/S Two pitches, led as one pitch, small nuts and wires, three long slings, selection of tricams, small friends for top pitch!
Two pitches, led as one pitch, small nuts and wires, three long slings, selection of tricams, small friends for top pitch!
Ally Smith 28 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P2 - excellent
Lead P2 - excellent
Hidden 27 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Ed morris 27 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Led the bold first pitch. Good climbing through the blocky overlaps.
Led the bold first pitch. Good climbing through the blocky overlaps.
khalidq 9 Jul, 2014 2nd dog Actually I came off whilst struggling to down climb to unhook some gear, but it was close enough for me to claim. The line was amazing. A couple of hard moves.
with James Mchaffie, Dan Vaj
Actually I came off whilst struggling to down climb to unhook some gear, but it was close enough for me to claim. The line was amazing. A couple of hard moves.
with James Mchaffie, Dan Vaj
Dan Vaj 9 Jul, 2014 2nd β One point of aid
with khalidq, James McHaffie
One point of aid
with khalidq, James McHaffie
Ed Booth 28 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Amazing!!
Amazing!!
tim newton 5 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S really good. Must have been having a good slate day, felt really easy. Did it quite late in the evening and finished in the dark...it was a bit tricky to find small slate footholds seconding the top pitch in almost complete darkness! maybe i'll remember a head torch next time...
with gwen lancashire
really good. Must have been having a good slate day, felt really easy. Did it quite late in the evening and finished in the dark...it was a bit tricky to find small slate footholds seconding the top pitch in almost complete darkness! maybe i'll remember a head torch next time...
with gwen lancashire
cameronmcloughlin 9 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
with Henry Cowan, james mchaffie
with Henry Cowan, james mchaffie
morganator 2 May, 2013 AltLd Awesome route. Happy to have got the second pitch lead rather than the first as it is bold off the deck
with Calum Muskett
Awesome route. Happy to have got the second pitch lead rather than the first as it is bold off the deck
with Calum Muskett
willoates 27 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S I lead the second pitch. If you can get of the ground you can definitely climb the route. an absolutely brilliant route that is never desperate, the crack looks brutal from below, but is easy enough once your there. will do this many more times.
with Murdoch
I lead the second pitch. If you can get of the ground you can definitely climb the route. an absolutely brilliant route that is never desperate, the crack looks brutal from below, but is easy enough once your there. will do this many more times.
with Murdoch
Bob ??, 2012 -
MikePycroft 16 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S Brilliant climb wish I had been brave anough to lead the second pitch
Brilliant climb wish I had been brave anough to lead the second pitch
Steve Long ?Jun, 2011 Lead This route never disappoints. Soft for E5 by slate standards
This route never disappoints. Soft for E5 by slate standards
Hidden 12 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
phil64 ??, 2011 -
Duncan Campbell 31 Oct, 2010 2nd 2nded 1st pitch, felt appehensive about the 2nd pitch but went for the lead....steady but bold up to the crack...hard moves into the crack, but felt good, then chilled at the large flake, placed some gear and went up the crack, brilliant climbing, got a cam in but felt super-committed due to the lack of footholds, kept going but fell as I was going to the jug! Awesome route, seconded Mason up it but was cold so plled on a couple of cams in the crack.
2nded 1st pitch, felt appehensive about the 2nd pitch but went for the lead....steady but bold up to the crack...hard moves into the crack, but felt good, then chilled at the large flake, placed some gear and went up the crack, brilliant climbing, got a cam in but felt super-committed due to the lack of footholds, kept going but fell as I was going to the jug! Awesome route, seconded Mason up it but was cold so plled on a couple of cams in the crack.
Alex Mason 31 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S Brilliant route, led both pitches. !st pitch, i started across to the right up a vertical crack to gain big ledge. From here the climbing is bold, there is gear but no inspiring pieces, even the spike looks like it could rip, However, the climbing is brilliant, sustained, but never goey. 2nd pitch is more straight forward with some superb finger jamming.
Brilliant route, led both pitches. !st pitch, i started across to the right up a vertical crack to gain big ledge. From here the climbing is bold, there is gear but no inspiring pieces, even the spike looks like it could rip, However, the climbing is brilliant, sustained, but never goey. 2nd pitch is more straight forward with some superb finger jamming.
barni 17 Jul, 2010 2nd rpt
Toby Dunn 3 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
barni 11 Nov, 2009 Lead O/S Lead both pitches.
Lead both pitches.
Liam FLeming 30 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
with barni
with barni
Luke Brooks 17 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Davros the Psyched ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
Dringo ??, 2003 -
PaulHermes ??, 1997 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27 Apr, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Nick Ashton
with Nick Ashton
crossleysm ?Jun, 1994 AltLd
with Guy Maddox
with Guy Maddox
keefe 21 Sep, 1991 -
chrisdavies ?Sep, 1991 Lead O/S
Neil McA 8 Jun, 1991 2nd O/S Excellent but cold. Nice to be seconding!
with Paul Jenkinson
Excellent but cold. Nice to be seconding!
with Paul Jenkinson
RockPhoenix 20 Oct, 1990 2nd O/S
Steve Walker ?Sep, 1989 Lead
with jason cain
with jason cain
Mike Owen 31 May, 1987 Lead O/S
with Bob Drury
with Bob Drury
Hidden 24 May, 1986 Lead
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 22
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set