Rockfax Description
Possibly the best route of its grade in the quarries. Start below a thin crack to the right of a tapering groove.
1) 6a, 25m. The bold first pitch starts with a tricky move to gain the crack, follow it more easily to a ledge below a recess. Move up on slopers to a spike (sling), and then commit to gaining the wall above. Head up this, moving right near the top, to a two-bolt belay.
2) 6a, 32m. The better protected second pitch moves up and right from the belay towards a crack. Once gained, follow it (very small cams are helpful) in an amazing position, until you make a difficult move to gain a larger crack that leads up and right towards the top of the crag. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, a State of Slate, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, slate E5's, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

wolf.leeb 10/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Led both, top pitch is sublime.

with hosey
Ellis Bird ?/Aug/17 Lead O/S
pablosordo 21/May/17 2nd
with jon
jonleighton 21/May/17 Lead O/S

Awesome. P1 definitely the crux for me, the crack pitch felt more like an immaculate E4.

with Pablo
JendeHoxar 04/Feb/17 2nd O/S
with Flavio
Flavio 04/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Felt like a first winter ascent! Least the landscape was in very "wintery" conditions. Lead both pitches in glacial temperatures and at glacial speed. No bolts on this one too and ohh that crack pitch!

spidermonkey ??/2017 -

Amazing route. Slimey at the base, wait for the sun to hit. Cobwebs on the route throughout so I guess it had been a while. Had to aid the slanting crack. How anyone can lead that bit I'll never know. Good effort to 'em!

Eduardo Martinez 09/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch. The run out section was technically quit easy. Second pitch is immaculate crack climbing at it's best. Need to come back to lead the second pitch.

with Rich
Rich Kirby 09/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch. Superb

with Eddie
richiebongo 27/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Pablo lead the 1st pitch which was bold and I lead the 2nd in the fading light. No lower off at the top and we didn't read the how to walk off notes in the guide! Amazing route.

with paulo
pablosordo 27/Jun/16 Lead O/S

lead 1st pitch, epic

Hidden ??/2016 -
jacob shieldhouse hadley 21/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

led 2nd pitch, well protected, felt like easy 6b not knowing how to climb cracks!

with callum muskett
pete johnson 01/May/15 Lead O/S
pauldrew 01/May/15 2nd
MischaHY 30/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Scary but steady. Will be back soon for the lead.

with Joe Heeley, James Mcaffie
davebrox 16/Apr/15 2nd
breed 14/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Class route. I did p1. Steady climbing prob no 6a moves but the gear is pretty poor all the way after the first crack. Great p2

HAJ Francis ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
waynekinrade ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Two pitches, led as one pitch, small nuts and wires, three long slings, selection of tricams, small friends for top pitch!

Ally Smith 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 - excellent

Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Ed morris 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led the bold first pitch. Good climbing through the blocky overlaps.

khalidq 09/Jul/14 2nd β

Actually I came off whilst struggling to down climb to unhook some gear, but it was close enough for me to claim. The line was amazing. A couple of hard moves.

with James Mchaffie, Dan Vajzovic
Dan Vaj 09/Jul/14 2nd β

One point of aid

with Khalid, James McHaffie
Ed Booth 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S


with Will N
tim newton 05/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

really good. Must have been having a good slate day, felt really easy. Did it quite late in the evening and finished in the was a bit tricky to find small slate footholds seconding the top pitch in almost complete darkness! maybe i'll remember a head torch next time...

with gwen lancashire
cameronmcloughlin 09/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Henry Cowan, james mchaffie
morganator 02/May/13 AltLd

Awesome route. Happy to have got the second pitch lead rather than the first as it is bold off the deck

with Calum Muskett
willoates 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S

I lead the second pitch. If you can get of the ground you can definitely climb the route. an absolutely brilliant route that is never desperate, the crack looks brutal from below, but is easy enough once your there. will do this many more times.

with Murdoch
Bob ??/2012 -
Hidden 16/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Steve Long ?/Jun/11 Lead

This route never disappoints. Soft for E5 by slate standards

Hidden 12/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
phil64 ??/2011 -
Duncan Campbell 31/Oct/10 2nd

2nded 1st pitch, felt appehensive about the 2nd pitch but went for the lead....steady but bold up to the crack...hard moves into the crack, but felt good, then chilled at the large flake, placed some gear and went up the crack, brilliant climbing, got a cam in but felt super-committed due to the lack of footholds, kept going but fell as I was going to the jug! Awesome route, seconded Mason up it but was cold so plled on a couple of cams in the crack.

with Mason
Alex Mason 31/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, led both pitches. !st pitch, i started across to the right up a vertical crack to gain big ledge. From here the climbing is bold, there is gear but no inspiring pieces, even the spike looks like it could rip, However, the climbing is brilliant, sustained, but never goey. 2nd pitch is more straight forward with some superb finger jamming.

barni 17/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Toby Dunn 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
barni 11/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches.

Liam FLeming 30/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with barni
Luke Brooks 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Davros the Psyched ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Dringo ??/2003 -
PaulHermes ??/1997 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Apr/96 AltLd O/S
with Nick Ashton
crossleysm ?/Jun/94 AltLd
with Guy Maddox
keefe 21/Sep/91 -
chrisdavies ?/Sep/91 Lead O/S
Steve Walker ?/Sep/89 Lead
with jason cain
Mike Owen 31/May/87 Lead O/S
with Bob Drury
Hidden 24/May/86 Lead
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High E6
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 19
High 6b
Mid 6b
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High 6a
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High 5c
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Votes cast 17
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
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