This is a list, from my experience, of some of the best climbing accessible on the trainlines from Cardiff into the valleys. As a general rule the really good stuff tends to take the longest time to get to: Treherbert, for instance, is well worth the hour long train and the steep trek. Venues such as Taffs Well and Castle Quarry are underwhelming but have the advantages of being convenient and catering to beginners.
*Approach times are approximate -- they begin from the relevant station and include the train journey and the walk in: most journeys depart from Cathays but for those for Penallta and Bargoed go from Queen Street.
**The best crags in terms of both climbing and situation are: Treherbert, Navigation and the Gap. Bargoed has excellent climbing but is by no means scenic. Penallta has good trad but beware chair-wielding youths!
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| User | Percentage | Latest Log | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1st | Rob McGurk | 100% | 9 Jun, 2016 |
| 2nd | myrddinmuse | 61% | 21 Apr, 2024 |
| 3rd | Hidden | 33% | 14 Oct, 2020 |
| 4th | Hidden | 27% | 15 Jun, 2020 |
| 5th | Elaine Reed | 22% | 2 Jan, 2019 |
| 6th | James Hardman | 16% | 15 Mar, 2017 |
| 6th | rosatb | 16% | 14 Aug, 2022 |
| 7th | Chris Redding | 11% | 4 Apr, 2021 |
| 7th | Hidden | 11% | 30 Oct, 2017 |
| 7th | Hidden | 11% | 21 Sep, 2020 |
Map of routes in this ticklist
Distribution of grades
Top 12 photos of this ticklist
Terry Forkwit
Terry Forkwit F6b
© wthompson098
Lamb Leer Disease
Tom working up Lamb Leer Disease
© Josh Lewis
Rattle Those Tusks
Rattle those tusks climbed on trad at the gap south wales
© gman2
Weeping Stump
Jaako high on Weeping Stump, showing the arête of Left Edge.
© simoncov
Groping for Jugs
Great arête!!
© Ceri Young
Alley Oop
© Gabe
Dirty Gerty
Solo 2000-ish
© channinga
Rattle Those Tusks
The crux of Rattle Those Tusks, The Gap, South Wales
© willchis
Dirty Gerty
Solo 2000-ish
© channinga
Dirty Gerty
Solo 2000-ish
© channinga
Dirty Gerty
Solo 2000-ish
© channinga
Groping for Jugs
Groping for jugs Bargoed
© jimecallaw
| Add | Climb name | Grade | Ticks? | Height | Crag name | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| TOTAL APPROACH TIME: ~30 MINS OR LESS | ||||||||
| Kiss the Gunner's Daughter | 5c * | 335 | ? | Taff's Well | ||||
| Dissertation Distraction | 4b | 240 | ? | Taff's Well | ||||
| Once Upon a Time | 6a | 159 | ? | Taff's Well... | ||||
| Gorki's Zygotic Mynci | 6c+ * | 67 | ? | Trehafod | ||||
| TOTAL APPROACH TIME: ~30MINS - 1 HOUR | ||||||||
| Pepperatzi | 6b * | 113 | 10m | Bargoed | ||||
| Groping for Jugs | 6a *** | 275 | 12m | Bargoed | ||||
| Alley Oop | S 4a | 235 | ? | Penallta | ||||
| Bold Finger | VS 5b * | 25 | ? | Penallta | ||||
| Blood, Sweat and Beers | 6b ** | 439 | ? | Navigation Quarry | ||||
| Fly Me to the Moon | VS 4c * | 255 | ? | Navigation Quarry | ||||
| Weeping Stump | 5b * | 127 | 24m | Mountain Ash | ||||
| TOTAL APPROACH TIME: OVER AN HOUR | ||||||||
| Final Relief of the Blue Ball Artist | 5b * | 32 | 15m | Ton Pentre (Ystrad) | ||||
| Galvinised | 6a+ ** | 102 | ? | Gelli | ||||
| Rattle Those Tusks | 6b ** | 455 | 18m | The Gap | ||||
| Dirty Gerty | VS 4c * | 75 | 12m | The Gap | ||||
| Terry Forkwit | 6b *** | 110 | ? | Treherbert Quarrry... | ||||
| Lamb Leer Disease | E2 5c ** | 33 | ? | Treherbert Quarrry... | ||||
| Crescent Wanker | 5c | 30 | 4m | Treherbert Quarrry... | ||||
| 2 e, 22 stars | 3,107 | 95m | 18 | |||||
Rob McGurk