UKC

Contributed by Rob McGurk Jun/16 - This public ticklist has been seen 1,578 times

This is a list, from my experience, of some of the best climbing accessible on the trainlines from Cardiff into the valleys. As a general rule the really good stuff tends to take the longest time to get to: Treherbert, for instance, is well worth the hour long train and the steep trek. Venues such as Taffs Well and Castle Quarry are underwhelming but have the advantages of being convenient and catering to beginners.
*Approach times are approximate -- they begin from the relevant station and include the train journey and the walk in: most journeys depart from Cathays but for those for Penallta and Bargoed go from Queen Street.
**The best crags in terms of both climbing and situation are: Treherbert, Navigation and the Gap. Bargoed has excellent climbing but is by no means scenic. Penallta has good trad but beware chair-wielding youths!

Tom working up Lamb Leer Disease  © Josh  Lewis
Tom working up Lamb Leer Disease
© Josh Lewis, May 2016

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User Percentage Latest Log
1st Rob McGurk 100% 9 Jun, 2016
2nd myrddinmuse 61% 25 Mar, 2021
3rd Hidden 33% 14 Oct, 2020
4th Hidden 27% 15 Jun, 2020
5th Elaine Reed 22% 2 Jan, 2019
6th James Hardman 16% 15 Mar, 2017
6th rosatb 16% 14 Aug, 2022
7th Chris Redding 11% 4 Apr, 2021
7th Hidden 11% 30 Oct, 2017
7th Hidden 11% 21 Sep, 2020

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Distribution of grades

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Terry Forkwit F6b

Terry Forkwit
Terry Forkwit F6b
© wthompson098

Falling off South Wales Sandstone (deliberately!)

Rattle Those Tusks
Falling off South Wales Sandstone (deliberately!)
© Mark Salter

Tom working up Lamb Leer Disease

Lamb Leer Disease
Tom working up Lamb Leer Disease
© Josh Lewis

Rattle those tusks climbed on trad at the gap south wales

Rattle Those Tusks
Rattle those tusks climbed on trad at the gap south wales
© gman2

Jaako high on Weeping Stump, showing the arête of Left Edge.

Weeping Stump
Jaako high on Weeping Stump, showing the arête of Left Edge.
© simoncov

Great arête!!

Groping for Jugs
Great arête!!
© Ceri Young

Alley Oop

Alley Oop
© Gabe

The crux of Rattle Those Tusks, The Gap, South Wales

Rattle Those Tusks
The crux of Rattle Those Tusks, The Gap, South Wales
© willchis

Jaako just past the short earthy flake crack on Weeping Stump.

Weeping Stump
Jaako just past the short earthy flake crack on Weeping Stump.
© simoncov

Pepperatzi 6b.

Pepperatzi
Pepperatzi 6b.
© Denzel

Xilai lowering off

Dissertation Distraction
Xilai lowering off
© Thomas Jones88

The tricky start of Weeping Stump.

Weeping Stump
The tricky start of Weeping Stump.
© simoncov


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
TOTAL APPROACH TIME: ~30 MINS OR LESS
Kiss the Gunner's Daughter 5c * 251 ? Taff's Well
Dissertation Distraction 4a 191 ? Taff's Well
Once Upon a Time 6a * 122 ? Taff's Well...
Gorki's Zygotic Mynci 6c+ * 56 ? Trehafod
TOTAL APPROACH TIME: ~30MINS - 1 HOUR
Pepperatzi 6b * 99 10m Bargoed
Groping for Jugs 6a *** 211 12m Bargoed
Alley Oop S 4a 221 ? Penallta
Bold Finger VS 5b * 25 ? Penallta
Blood, Sweat and Beers 6b ** 312 ? Navigation Quarry
Fly Me to the Moon VS * 206 ? Navigation Quarry
Weeping Stump 5b * 99 24m Mountain Ash
TOTAL APPROACH TIME: OVER AN HOUR
Final Relief of the Blue Ball Artist 5b * 25 15m Ton Pentre (Ystrad)
Galvinised 6a+ ** 72 ? Gelli
Rattle Those Tusks 6b ** 327 18m The Gap
Dirty Gerty VS 4c * 74 12m The Gap
Terry Forkwit 6b *** 83 ? Treherbert Quarrry...
Lamb Leer Disease E2 5c ** 28 ? Treherbert Quarrry...
Crescent Wanker 5c 26 4m Treherbert Quarrry...
2 e, 23 stars 2,428 95m 18
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Rob McGurk
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