UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
The long crack and upper roof gives some classic crack climbing - with bolts. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The new retrobolted version. 2nd obvious crack splitting the main face climb to the roof then heave ho through it.

R Thomas, M Learoyd ( 1st trad ascent) 1990.

Ticklists

CUMC Ticklist , South Wales by Train (from Cardiff) , No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff) , Michelle's crack ticklist , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Rockfax South Wales Sandstone Graded List , CoT Sandstone Mileage , Mid-Sixes Starred Valleys Sandstone , South Wales - Road to 7a

Feedback

User Date Notes
ZacMoss 10 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The block with a key crux right foothold moves, it's massive and will do some serious damage when it comes out. Seems keyed in but take care.
βeta?
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βeta: The block with a key crux right foothold moves, it's massive and will do some serious damage when it comes out. Seems keyed in but take care.
Martino90 23 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose blocks and jugs at the top of the roof, be careful.
βeta?
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βeta: Very loose blocks and jugs at the top of the roof, be careful.
aled 4 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Birds nesting in the mouth below the overhang. Please avoid!
βeta?
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βeta: Birds nesting in the mouth below the overhang. Please avoid!
Flavio 1 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Bolting a crack like this makes no sense whatsoever, trad and sport can happily coexist.
βeta?
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βeta: Bolting a crack like this makes no sense whatsoever, trad and sport can happily coexist.
afshapes 27 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rushed the top and fell, I'll get it one day !
βeta?
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βeta: Rushed the top and fell, I'll get it one day !
richsmithinbristol 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose hold right at the top I suspect used often to make the last moves. It is marked with an X. Move can be done without it but a bit harder.
Show beta
βeta: Loose hold right at the top I suspect used often to make the last moves. It is marked with an X. Move can be done without it but a bit harder.
Waity94 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing climb, favourite in the crag so far! Loved the variety of moves, got my first hand jam into a outdoor climb with the roof topping it off, 3star from me! Sidenote was quite wet at the roof had to avoid certain holds!
βeta?
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βeta: Amazing climb, favourite in the crag so far! Loved the variety of moves, got my first hand jam into a outdoor climb with the roof topping it off, 3star from me! Sidenote was quite wet at the roof had to avoid certain holds!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Terry Forkwit

Grade: 6b ***
(Treherbert Quarrry (Rhondda Pillar))

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