UKC

Malcolm Smith repeats Careless Torque - as Fawcett watches

Careless Torque has had a definite repeat in front of indubitable witnesses, among them the FA, Big Ron.

The 7a boulder problem, on the Not To Be Taken Away boulder at Stanage Plantation, is rumoured to have been done by John Dunne. But on Thurs 20th, Malcolm Smith did it as Justin (Critchlow) relates:

"He was trying it ground-up but did not want to do the top move. He then toproped it a few times, then did it. He was doing the first move (crux) every time and making it look 6a and not 7a. He said it was 8a+ to get standing on the arete.

"Well done . . he did it in front of Ben and Jerry, Ron Fawcett was there and Alan Williams plus a few others...

"He then went on to do the Joker on his 6th go. and nearly doing Ace in a few goes! This man is unstoppable. . "

Ron, of course, practised for the top move worries by climbing NTBTA (E2 6a, slightly more amenable) and jumping from increasing heights to convince himself of the landing.

You don't remember? Well, it was 1987.


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20 Dec, 2001
Second ascent, eh? M
20 Dec, 2001
Second ascent is the concensus then. Nice one Smith - about freakin time, you can't be an underachiever forever. Now get you finger out and do something really hard. M
20 Dec, 2001
mart was with them today. email him at martinveale@hotmail.com if youve got any queries.
20 Dec, 2001
Oh so JD's claiming the second. I'm afraid with the cloud of doubt hanging over JD's head (RIGHTLY OR WRONGLY) the burden of proof is with John. He should have learnt his lesson a long time a go and that cloud would have dissipated. And I'm afraid the word of his henchmen (supportdudes): Jack and that little photographer guy who likes to hide in shadows: is NOT good enough.....despite what they may print in the magazines (don't forget the mags don't want to piss off JD's sponsors as they'll loose revenue) Ben and Jerry aren't the only ones casting doubt on JD's claims. Good point though about the Ice Cream twins being friends of Smiths - but the same can be said of JD's supportdudes. M
20 Dec, 2001
WRONG - I was on about Simmonite. M
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