Marietta Uhden repeats La Rose et La Vampire (F8b)
Charles Arthur 11th October, 2002
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Marietta Uhden has made what may be the first female ascent of THE classic La Rose et le Vampire, hard and polished 8b, at Buoux. This is the route that Jerry Moffatt loved - to quote CragX (at http://www.cragx.com/articles/issue07/the_rose/) - "so much he used to do laps on it". It's a very manufactured route (lots of intentionally chipped holds), "a mixture of powerful technical sections followed by ballistic crimp sequences". It includes a crossover move on manufactured holds that is generally viewed as the crux; Moffatt said it is such a lovely move that it doesn't matter than it's artificial. We'll have to wait to learn what Uhden thought of it.