UKC

Brits in Greenland

A team of 8 British climbers have just returned from a successful expedition to Southern Greenland. Their objective was to climb new lines on the 830m Igdlorssitt Havn Tower or "The Saft" as it was dubbed, located 10km from The Thumbnail and The Baroness walls. Steve McClure and Miles Gibson climbed the central corner of the wall, accessed by a series of difficult groove and face pitches. The 23 pitch Twenty-one included climbing up to E7 6c, with a wet roof crack which "felt like 8b" in the conditions. The route was done ground up with no fixed gear, using 450 metres of fixed rope. With few other possible lines on the wall, Nick Boden, Aide Jebb, Rob Mirfin and Tom Briggs decided to attempt to free a Slovenian aid route first climbed in 1996 at A3. A siege mentality resulted in Waiting for the Sun, including 12 new free pitches up to E7 and French 7C+. The team benefited from bolt belays, though no additional fixed gear was placed.

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